Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [260]
The remote entrances to Lassen have their own campgrounds: Warner Valley, Butte Lake, and Juniper Lake campgrounds. All three are reached on dirt roads, and Warner Valley and Juniper Lake are not recommended for trailers. All campgrounds except Juniper Lake have potable water in the summer.
Backcountry camping is allowed in much of the park, and traffic is light. Ask about closed areas when you get your free wilderness permit, which is issued at the visitor stations and required for anyone spending the night in the backcountry. Fires and dogs are prohibited in the backcountry.
* Campgrounds usually open in May or June and close in September, but weather can affect dates; call park headquarters for schedule.
** Southwest closed until 2007 during construction of new visitor center.
If park campgrounds are full, myriad campgrounds are available in surrounding Lassen National Forest, so you'll find a site somewhere. For information, contact the Forest Supervisor's Office, 2550 Riverside Dr., Susanville, CA 96130 (☎ 530/257-2151).
Where to Stay
INSIDE THE PARK
Drakesbad Guest Ranch
Warner Valley Rd. (Mailing address: California Guest Services, 2150 Main St., Suite 5, Red Bluff, CA 96080.) ☎ 530/529-1512. www.drakesbad.com. 19 units. $230–$280 double. Rates include all meals. DISC, MC, V. Closed mid-Oct to early June. From Chester, enter southern part of the park on Warner Valley Rd., which ends at the ranch.
The only lodge operating in Lassen Volcanic National Park is Drakesbad, hidden in a high mountain valley and surrounded by meadows, lakes, and streams. The 100-year-old Drakesbad is famous for its rustic cabins, lodge, and steaming thermal swimming pool, fed by a natural hot spring. Horseback riding is also a big draw. The ranch is as deluxe as only a facility with very little electricity and no phones can be, with quilts on every bed, propane heaters for warmth, and kerosene lamps for light. Food is hearty American fare, with an emphasis on fresh fruits and vegetables, and often creative variations on standard dishes. Breakfast and lunch are buffets (sack lunches are also available), and dinners are served at the table. The lodge is extremely popular and open for less than 5 months, so reservations are booked as far as 2 years in advance (Feb is a good time to call to take advantage of cancellations).
NEAR THE PARK
The Bidwell House
1 Main St. (P.O. Box l790), Chester, CA 96020. ☎ 530/258-3338. www.bidwellhouse.com. 14 units (12 with private bathroom), 1 cottage. TEL. $75–$180 double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V.
In 1901, Gen. John Bidwell, a California senator who made three unsuccessful bids for the presidency, built a country retreat and summer home for his beloved young wife, Annie. After her death, when Chester had developed
into a prosperous logging hamlet, the building, with its farmhouse-style design and spacious veranda, was converted into the headquarters for a local ranch.
Today, the house sits at the extreme eastern end of Chester, adjacent to a rolling meadow. The lake is visible across the road, and inside, Ian and Kim James maintain one of the most charming B&B inns in the region. Seven of the rooms have whirlpool tubs, and three offer wood-burning stoves. The cottage (which sleeps up to six) has a kitchenette. The gourmet omelets are a breakfast favorite.
Lassen Mineral Lodge
Calif. 36 East (P.O. Box 160), Mineral, CA 96063. ☎ 530/595-4422. Fax 530/595-4452. www.minerallodge.com. 20 units. $79