Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [278]
It might be a bit pedestrian, but if you want to get the whole flavor of what Mount Rainier is about, you will probably want to do the normal route and head into the park through the Longmire Entrance in late summer. You get old-growth forests, subalpine meadows blooming with flowers, and a look at the rocky scree underneath the Emmons and Winthrop glaciers. If you'd rather avoid lines of cars later in the day (and who doesn't?), get a jump on things early in the morning. By noon, Rainier is packed, especially on weekends.
For an 80-mile trip, start out at the Nisqually Entrance on Wash. 706, and check out the Longmire Museum and its exhibits on American Indian culture, European exploration, and the area's natural history, as well as the local flora and fauna. If you've already been driving a bit, take a walk on the excellent .7-mile Trail of the Shadows across from the National Park Inn. The trail passes by the mineral springs that once were home to the early hotel, as well as a cabin (reconstructed) built by one of the Longmires in 1888. Don't drink the mineral water; it will make you very sick.
Next is an up-close-and-personal look at the fantastic burst of colors in Paradise's fields of brilliant paintbrush, anemones, and gentians. But first, visit the Jackson Visitor Center and figure out what you're looking at. It might be the Nisqually or Wilson glacier hanging over your head. For a more up-close view of the Nisqually Glacier, take the 1.2-mile (1 hr. round-trip) Nisqually Vista Trail from the visitor center. Otherwise, numerous trails leading from the parking lot will allow you to create your own wildflower stroll. Please stay on the trails to protect the wildflowers.
From Paradise, head east toward the Stevens Canyon Entrance. Your next goal is a short hike along the Grove of the Patriarchs at Ohanapecosh. This 1.3-mile walk, one of the most popular in the park, is famous for its absolutely huge Douglas fir and western red cedar, located on a small island accessible by a bridge across the beautiful Ohanapecosh River. If you have time, take the Hot Springs Nature Trail, which begins at the visitor center, a quick .4-mile jaunt where you will see a shallow hot spring alongside the trail as you gaze down at a meadow of lush grass. Other worthy stops are at Reflection Lakes and Box Canyon along Stevens Canyon Road.
Finally, wind your way through forests of fir, cedar, and hemlock on the way to Sunrise. The big, snowcapped mountain in your rearview mirror to the south is Mount Adams, equal in beauty to Mount Rainier but more remote. This side of the mountain is glacier-packed. Check out Emmons Vista for excellent views of Little Tahoma and the Emmons glacier, or take the 1.5-mile Sunrise Rim Trail, which also leads away from the day lodge. For a close-up view, use the telescopes at the visitor center.
If You Have More Time
The best way to explore the park is on foot, and if you have more than 1 day you'll be able to get out on the trails. The mother of all park trails is the Wonderland Trail, which, as it winds its labyrinthine route around the entire mountain (most folks plan 10 days to 2 weeks to do this one), takes you through any section of the park you might be interested in. There's no law that says you can't do a small portion of the Wonderland Trail, though. Since it's accessible from all the major park centers, you can do a piece as a day hike (see "Hikes," below).
The least visited sections of the park, including the incredibly beautiful Carbon River area northwest of the mountain, are really some of the best. If you have the time, go there. The Carbon River basin contains a temperate rain forest. The only other temperate rain forest in the United States is on the Olympic Peninsula, making the Carbon River area a unique jewel of an ecosystem. The Carbon River Road is very susceptible to flood damage