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Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [287]

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night. The guest rooms vary in size but come with rustic furniture, new carpeting, and coffeemakers. In winter this lodge is popular with cross-country skiers; skis and snowshoes can be rented here. The inn's restaurant has a limited menu that nevertheless manages to have something for everyone. There's also a small bar. All rooms are nonsmoking. You'll need to book reservations well in advance during the summer months. If at first you don't succeed, keep trying, because there are often cancellations.

OUTSIDE THE SOUTHWEST (NISQUALLY) ENTRANCE

Alexander's Country Inn

37515 Wash. 706 E., Ashford, WA 98304. ☎ 800/654-7615 or 360/569-2300. www.alexanderscountryinn.com. 12 units, 2 houses. May–Oct $110–$120 double, $150 double suite, $210 double house; Nov–Apr $89–$99 double, $125 double suite, $165 double house. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V.

Located just outside the park's Nisqually Entrance, this extremely appealing bed-and-breakfast opened as an inn in 1912. Today, as then, it is one of the preferred places to stay in the area, offering not only comfortable rooms but also some of the best food around (see "Where to Dine," below). Much care went into the restoration, with antique European stained-glass windows and antique furnishings. The dining room takes up the first floor; on the second floor, you'll find a big lounge where you can sit by the fire on a cold night. By far the best room is the tower suite, which is in a turret and has plenty of windows looking out on the woods. After a hard day of playing on the mountain, there's no better place to relax than in the hot tub overlooking the inn's trout pond. The entire inn is nonsmoking. The inn also rents two three-bedroom houses (call for details).

The Hobo Inn

54106 Wash. 7 (P.O. Box 10), Elbe, WA 98330. ☎ 360/569-2500. 5 units. $80–$90 double. AE, DISC, DC, MC, V.

If you're a railroad buff, you won't want to pass up the opportunity to spend the night in a remodeled boxcar. Each of the eight railroad cars is a little different (one even has a private hot tub), and all have comfortable beds and bathrooms. Some have bay windows, while others have cupolas. For the total railroad experience, you can dine in the adjacent Mount Rainier Railroad Dining Co. dining car restaurant (see "Where to Dine," below) and go for a ride on the Mount Rainier Scenic Railroad (☎ 888/ STEAM-11 or 360/569-2351; www.mrsr.com).

Mountain Meadows Inn Bed & Breakfast

28912 Wash. 706 E. (P.O. Box 291), Ashford, WA 98304. ☎ 360/569-2788. www.mountain meadowsinn.com. 6 units. $139–$165 double. Rates include breakfast. MC, V.

Set beneath tall trees beside a small creek, this B&B was built in 1910 as the home of the superintendent for the lumber mill in the town of National, which was the site of the largest sawmill west of the Mississippi. Today this impressive old home is filled with unique collections, including an outstanding display of memorabilia of John Muir and the national parks, authentic Northwest coast American Indian basketry, and a 1,000-volume nature library. There are three rooms in the main house, attractively decorated with antiques and American Indian art; plus three rooms in a separate guesthouse, which are more modern. Some have shower only, some have tub only, and some have both. We especially like the Mountain Berry Room in the main house because of its claw-foot tub and handsome early American furnishings. The main house's big front porch overlooks the creek, and there is room to roam on nearby hiking trails through the site of the historic town of National. On the property is a delightful outdoor whirlpool tub.

Nisqually Lodge

31609 Wash. 706, Ashford, WA 98304. ☎ 888/674-3554 or 360/569-8804. Fax 360/569-2435. www.escapetothemountains.com. 24 units. A/C TV TEL. $69–$99 double. AE, MC, V.

This modern lodge is well located near the Nisqually Entrance to Mount Rainier National Park, and it has a popular restaurant, the Rainier Overland, next door. Rooms are of the modern American motel style, average size, with

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