Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [292]
SEASONS & CLIMATE
The most pernicious of seasons for people visiting the North Cascades area is the winter, which begins creeping up in October in the upper elevations and
mid-November in the lower elevations. It lasts until mid- to late April and necessitates the regular closure of Wash. State Route 20. Closure depends on snow and avalanche conditions.
From April to September, things get pretty temperate, with daytime temperatures ranging from 50° to 80°F (10°C–27°C), depending on the elevation. However, this is a land of extremes: Trails at higher elevations are usually snow-covered into early July (though this varies considerably from year to year), and summer temperatures of 100°F (38°C) are not unusual at Ross Lake and Lake Chelan. As can usually be expected in the Northwest, rains arrive westerly from the Pacific in the spring and fall, with summer being the most pleasant all around. At any time, though, expect rain and bring rain gear. The eastern side of the mountains is less wet than the western, though this is nothing to bank on.
With the extremes in altitude here, it's always good to bring some warm clothing, even in the summer months.
SEASONAL EVENTS
The Golden West Visitor Center mounts several art exhibits in the summer. Contact park headquarters for dates.
If You Have Only 1 Day
Considering that this is one of the most rugged wilderness areas in the United States, any attempt to see the park in a day must be made with the understanding that you're not going to see it all. For most folks with limited time, the choice is a summer drive across the park on Wash. State Route 20 (North Cascades Highway, described in the next section).
If You Have More Time
The road into the park is a beautiful drive along the banks of the Skagit River, past the Mount Baker–Snoqualmie National Forest. Your last real connection with civilization, and the last chance to stock up on groceries, is Marblemount, the oldest town in the region. From here, you can head south or east. South is the Cascade River Road, and east is Wash. State Route 20.
The Cascade River Road is a 23-mile stretch of mostly gravel road that leads to the Cascade Pass trailhead. The road, at the very beginning, crosses the Skagit River and then passes near a fish hatchery before terminating at the Cascade Pass trailhead (Northwest Forest Pass required for parking). Many folks take the 3.7-mile one-way trip to the top of Cascade Pass, which leads the hiker up a relatively modest set of switchbacks to beautiful views of glaciers and subalpine meadows.
If you're not up to the unpaved twisting of the Cascade River Road, continue on Wash. State Route 20 to Newhalem, where the North Cascades Visitor Center has exhibits and regularly scheduled ranger-led walks and talks. This is a good place to get information about the many short walks and hikes in the immediate vicinity. A short boardwalk trail (Sterling Munro Viewpoint) begins behind the visitor center and affords beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. In addition, if you're there late enough in the day, check out the trail to Ladder Creek Falls (which is not on National Park Service property but is owned by Seattle City Light), which is fun in a most decidedly touristy manner. There's a hydroelectric dam at the end of the trail that creates a miniature light show on the falls at night, created by James Ross, the master dam builder of the area. It's worth the hike.
The National Park Service recommends the short, accessible, Newhalem Rockshelter Trail to an archaeological site near the visitor center, as well as the River Loop Trail from the visitor center.
Next up on the route is the little town of Diablo, at the foot of 389-foot-high Diablo Dam, which holds back the blue-green waters of Diablo Lake. A tour operated by Seattle City Light's Skagit Tours (☎ 206/684-3030) takes you on Diablo Lake. Tours last 2 hours and cost $17 for adults, $15 for seniors over 62, $12