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Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [295]

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Lake Resort water taxi), or from trailhead on Wash. State Rte. 20 to terminus of trail at Hozomeen Campground. Northwest Forest Pass required for parking.

During the summer, this is one of the most popular trails in the park because of its plentiful and well-maintained campsites, the easy grade of its path, and its proximity to Wash. State Route 20. To avoid crowds, you might want to wait until late in the season or hike midweek. The path, near the eastern perimeter of the park, borders the Pasayten Wilderness and the Okanogan National Forest, from which several trails intersect the East Bank Trail. The highest point along the trail is the Desolation Peak Trail, to the north. Along the way, be prepared for black bears, beautiful fall foliage, and, on the northern section of the trail, the remote possibility of sighting a member of one of the few remaining wolf packs in the Lower 48.

Fourth of July Pass/Panther Creek 10 miles RT. Moderate to strenuous. Access: Hike 1.8 miles up Thunder Creek Trail to junction with trailhead. Northwest Forest Pass required for parking at Panther Creek trailhead on Wash. State Rte. 20.

For a day hike through some of the most astonishing country in the Lower 48, this section of trail isn't too shabby. It's a popular summer hike to the top of Fourth of July Pass, which offers views of the majestic Neve Glacier and Colonial Peak to the west. It isn't easy, though— this is a switchback-cursed climb from Thunder Creek up to the 3,500-foot top of the pass. But that's the hardest part. You return downhill through the beautiful Panther Creek Valley for 5 miles to the junction with Wash. State Route 20 at the Panther Creek Bridge and the East Bank trailhead.

Pyramid Lake

4.2 miles RT. Moderate. Access: 1 mile east of Diablo, on south side of highway near creek, close to mile marker 127. Northwest Forest Pass required for parking.

This trail is like many in the park— steep. The hike is a beautiful but relatively sharp climb, passing through pine and fir forests. It ends at a pond, fed by the Colonial Glaciers looming above you along the southeast side of Pyramid Peak. You're liable to see climbers descending from the peaks at the end of the day, looking tired but happy after having ascended the 7,000 feet to the top of Pyramid.

Sourdough Mountain

10.4 miles RT. Strenuous. Access: In Diablo, or water taxi on the West Bank Trail to the Pierce Mountain trailhead.

From the west, the trail is easily accessible by car. But rest assured, either way, you're going to be doing some serious climbing: Try a 3,000-foot climb from the Diablo direction, and in just 2 miles, too. And then there's the remaining 2,000 feet or so along the next 4 miles. It's a densely forested walk over the first couple of miles. Be sure to take the right fork at the 3-mile mark to get to the summit for spectacular views of the lake and the glaciers that dot the horizon to the north. This area is hot and dry in the summer, so take extra water. Sourdough Lookout is closed to the public.

Stetattle Creek

5 miles RT. Moderate. Access: Exit before the green bridge on Wash. State Rte. 20, just before Diablo, along Gorge Lake.

This is a pleasant summer hike down a gentle, scenic path along a creek. The trail meanders north for some 2.5 miles before hitting a stretch of giant, moss-hung trees and finally petering out in the middle of the forest. The waters of Stetattle Creek often flow milky blue-white from the glacial silt that comes down from McMillan Spire and Mount Terror.

Thornton Lakes Trail

10.6 miles RT. Moderate. Access: Wash. State Rte. 20 to Thornton Lakes Rd., 3 miles west of Newhalem. Gravel road climbs steeply to trailhead. Northwest Forest Pass required for parking.

Although the first part of the trail is basically an old logging road that might remind you of resource-stripping, this trip is not to be missed. It's a moderately steep walk to the lakes, with a scramble route to Trapper Peak, for sublime views of the Picket Range. Even if you don't take the

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