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this luxurious lodge captures the spirit of the West in both its breathtaking setting and its rustic design. In the lobby, flagstone floors, stone fireplaces, and wagon-wheel tables combine in a classically Western style. Most guest rooms feature rustic Western furnishings and views of the surrounding mountains. The rooms in the Gardner wing have balconies and slightly better views than those in the main lodge. The newest rooms are in the Mount Robinson wing. If seclusion is what you're after, opt for one of the cabins on Patterson Lake.

A superb menu that focuses on Northwest cuisine makes the lodge's dining room the region's best restaurant, and the views will definitely take your breath away. Prices for main courses range from $25 to $42.

The lodge offers ski rentals and a ski school; horseback and sleigh rides; guided hikes; and boat, mountain-bike, and ice-skate rentals. Guests can also use the outdoor heated pools, two whirlpools, tennis courts, exercise room, ski shop, children's playground, spa services, and ice-skating pond.

The Virginian

808 N. Cascades Hwy. (P.O. Box 237), Winthrop, WA 98862. ☎ 800/854-2834 or 509/996-2535. www.virginianresort.com. 37 units, 7 cabins. A/C TV. $45–$95 double; $95 cabin. DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted.

Just south of downtown Winthrop, the Virginian is a collection of small cabins and motel rooms on the banks of the Methow River. The deluxe rooms overlooking the river are our favorites. They have high ceilings, balconies, and lots of space. The quaint cabins don't have river views. The rooms and cabins are all lined with cedar, which gives them a rustic feel. There's a heated swimming pool, horseshoe pit, and volleyball court. A cross-country ski and mountain-bike trail is out the front door.

Where to Dine

Better stock up on the chow before you head into the park, Marblemount, or Winthrop. In most places, including Ross Lake Resort, there's just no food to be had.

IN STEHEKIN

There are several dining options in Stehekin, but if you plan to stay in a cabin or camp out, be sure to bring all the food you'll need. Otherwise, simple meals are available at North Cascades Stehekin Lodge (☎ 509/682-4494), at the boat dock in Stehekin. If you just have to have something sweet, you're in luck—the Stehekin Pastry Company, 2 miles up valley from the boat landing, serves pastries and ice cream, as well as pizza and espresso.

IN MARBLEMOUNT

Buffalo Run Restaurant 60084 Wash. 20 (mile marker 106), Marblemount. ☎ 360/873-2461. www.buffalorun restaurant.com. Main courses $2.50–$33. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 8am–9pm; Fri–Sat 8am–10pm. AMERICAN.

From the outside, this looks like any other roadside diner, but once you see the menu, it's obvious this place is something more. The owners have a buffalo ranch, and the menu includes buffalo burgers, buffalo chili, and buffalo T-bones. They also serve venison, elk, and ostrich, as well as salmon and mussels, plus vegetarian items. After a day of hiking, the garden patio is a pleasant setting for a meal. The restaurant offers beer, wine, and cocktails. Of course there's a buffalo head (and hide) on the wall. In the barn is a furnished bunkhouse, which rents in the summer for $55 double; a two-bedroom mobile home goes for $85 double.

IN THE WINTHROP AREA

The best meals in the Winthrop area are at the dining room at Sun Mountain Lodge, where you'll also enjoy one of the most spectacular views in the state. See "Where to Stay," above.

The Duck Brand

Wash. 20 (Riverside Ave.). ☎ 509/996-2192. Main courses $6–$17. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7am–9:30pm or later. MEXICAN.

Located across the street from the gas station and partially hidden by trees, the Duck Brand is a casual restaurant with a big, multilevel deck that's a great spot for a meal on a warm summer day. In cold or rainy weather, you can grab a table in the small dining room and order a plate of fajitas or ribs and a microbrew to wash it all down. The Duck Brand's muffins and cinnamon rolls make great trailside snacks.