Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [304]
The easiest solution is to go in the off season, especially in the fall. Although the west side of Olympic is often deluged with rain in the fall and winter, the eastern side can be fairly dry. So head east, toward Duckabush or Sequim. Otherwise, strap on your snorkel and try some winter camping in the Hoh or the Queets.
You might also try getting to the park on the southern route, up the peninsula through Aberdeen. If you choose this route, you can see everything the peninsula offers in a nutshell. Instead of going to the Hoh, try the Queets. Although less traveled, this area affords the same rain-forest views as the more popular Hoh. On the east side, try a walk into the interior from Duckabush or Dosewallips. Both jumping-off points are less trafficked than the more northerly areas, and the views as you walk through the old growth beside the blue-white rivers are as good as any in the park.
Finally, if you absolutely have to come in the summer and don't want to miss the most popular views, such as those on Hurricane Ridge, try heading up in the late afternoon when everyone else is on their way down. You're liable to get spectacular views of the sunset over the Strait of Juan de Fuca as the fog rolls in and the deer make their evening pilgrimage to the parking lot at the Hurricane Ridge Visitor Center.
Just the Facts
GETTING THERE & GATEWAYS
The main travel artery for all visitors to Olympic National Park is U.S. 101. This northernmost point of the famous coastal highway encircles and only briefly enters the park. Most of the traffic into and out of the park is on the northeastern side, from Vancouver and Seattle.
If you're departing from Seattle, you can take either of the hourly ferries that run daily from the same downtown Seattle dock. No reservations are needed for the ferries, which cost about $14 for a standard passenger vehicle one-way. The Seattle–Bainbridge Island Ferry takes you for a half-hour ride across the Puget Sound before arriving in Bainbridge Island. From there, take Wash. 305 north through Poulsbo to the Hood Canal Floating Bridge, and then Wash. 104 across to U.S. 101. The Seattle-Bremerton Ferry arrives in Bremerton after a 60-minute ride. From Bremerton, take Wash. 3 north to the Hood Canal Floating Bridge. The Edmonds-Kingston Ferry is a 30-minute ride to Kingston, where you take Wash. 104 24 miles to U.S. 101. In addition, the Keystone Ferry shuttles between Whidbey Island and Port Townsend. It's smaller, but in the off season it can be a good bet for shorter lines.
For all ferry schedules and rates, contact Washington State Ferries, Colman Dock/Pier 52, 801 Alaskan Way, Seattle, WA 98104 (☎ 888/808-7977 or 511 statewide, or 206/464-6400 local and out of state; www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries/ current).
If you'd rather drive your car over dry land only, head west from Tacoma on Wash. 16 over the Tacoma Narrows Bridge, which connects with the eastern shore of the Kitsap Peninsula just south of Gig Harbor. Drive north on Wash. 16 to Port Orchard and Bremerton. From Bremerton, take Wash. 3 to the Hood Canal Floating Bridge and across to U.S. 101.
To reach the park from the south, take I-5 to Olympia, where you can connect with U.S. 101 North, or with Wash. 8 West to the other side of the U.S. 101 loop, to enter the Pacific Ocean section of the park.
The Nearest Airport. Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (☎ 206/433-5388; www.portseattle.org/seatac) is 15 miles south of Seattle on I-5. It's served by most major airlines and car-rental companies. William R. Fairchild International Airport (☎ 360/457-1138 or 360/ 417-3433 for recorded information; www.portofpa.com/airports) is in Port Angeles, site of the park's main visitor center, and is served by Kenmore Air (☎ 800/543-9595; www.kenmoreair.com), which offers service between Port Angeles and Seattle. Budget provides car rentals.