Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [310]
Queets River Trail
Up to 16 miles one-way. Moderate to strenuous. Access: Queets River Campground.
This is the trail for the serious rain forest and wilderness lover. Part of its appeal is that the average hiker must exert a bit of an effort to reach the trail's solitude and quietly majestic scenery. Within 50 yards of your car, you'll be traversing the Queets River. Even on this first of several trips across the river, the water can be treacherous if it's up. It's best to visit during the dry season in late summer. An option is to cross the Sams River to the right of the Queets, connecting and crossing the Queets River farther up. At 2.5 miles, gape in awe at the largest Douglas fir on the planet. After 5 miles of hiking through elk and giant fern territory, you'll arrive at Spruce Bottom, which is a common haunt for steelhead anglers and has several good campsites. The trail ends at Pelton Creek, where more campsites are available.
Sams River Loop Trail
3 miles RT. Easy to moderate. Access: Queets River Ranger Station.
This short loop parallels both the Sams River and the Queets River, providing a view of some old homestead meadows, beautiful spruce trees, and perhaps an elk or two in the meadows in the evening.
NORTHERN PARK REGIONS
Deer Lake
7.6 miles RT. Moderate. Access: Junction of Sol Duc Falls.
A good choice for those who want to see deer, this trail is a steady climb through beautiful woods to a tree-lined lake. Canada jays wait to eat your food, but don't feed them. There are some switchbacks on this trail, and it can get pretty bumpy in spots.
Elwha River Trails
Up to 50 miles one-way. Difficulty varies. Access: Drive just beyond Elwha Ranger Station to Whiskey Bend Rd. Go past Glines Canyon Dam, 1½ miles up the road. Approximately 2 miles above the dam is Whiskey Bend trailhead, just beyond Upper Lake Mills trailhead.
The serious backpacker arranges a pickup car at the Dosewallips or North Fork ranger district and heads for a week or so along the trail that was fortuitously blazed by the famed 1889 Press Expedition, the excursion that essentially broke this park wide open. For a good distance, the trail follows the intense blue-green of the Elwha River to its source on the sometimes snow-slushy peak at Low Divide (elevation 3,600 ft.), which is also the head of the Quinault River. You can follow the trail downhill from here to the North Fork of the Quinault.
What can you expect on such a monumental trip?
Old-growth forests, moist valley flatlands, and gently sloping hills appear around you as you explore the Elwha Valley before you begin your ascent toward the sometimes calf-busting Low Divide. Roosevelt elk, black bears, mountain lions, marmots, or a grouse or two might show up. At Low Divide, you're treated to spectacular views of Mount Seattle to the north and Mount Christie to the south. From here, you begin your descent from alpine heights to the deep, dense rain forests along the Quinault.
Geyser Valley Loop
5 miles RT. Moderate. Access: Drive just beyond Elwha Ranger Station to Whiskey Bend Rd. Go 1½ miles to Glines Canyon Dam and continue approximately 2 miles to Whiskey Bend trailhead, just beyond Upper Lake Mills trailhead.
From the Whiskey Bend trailhead, hike .75 mile down the trail to the Eagles Nest Overlook for a view of the meadows that stretch from valley to valley. You may see an elk or black bear. Head back to the trail and proceed .5 mile to the Rica Canyon Trail for a view of Goblin's Gate, a rock formation in the Canyon Gorge that might look like a bunch of goblins' heads staring at you, if you stare back hard enough. The trail to Goblin's Gate drops 325 feet on the half-mile walk to the viewing area. At this point, you can follow a riverside trail for another half-mile to some prime fishing spots, or continue to the Krause Bottom