Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [33]
sun-baked desert, a float down a majestic canyonland river, or a trek in mountains where bears and mountain lions rule.
Geologists tell us that an inland sea once covered this area. As it dried up, sediments of sand and mud turned to rock. Tectonic plates collided and mountains were created; further upheaval occurred later from volcanic eruptions. It took millions of years of geologic activity and subsequent erosion to form the delightful canyons and rock formations we marvel at today. These rock formations, with their wonderful hues of red, orange, yellow, white, and brown, have created a unique and awe-inspiring world of immense and rugged beauty. This is not a fantasyland of delicate shapes and intricate carvings, such as Bryce Canyon in Utah, but a powerful and dominating landscape. Although the greatest natural sculptures are in the park's three major river canyons—the Santa Elena, Marsical, and Boquillas—throughout Big Bend you'll find spectacular and majestic examples of what nature can do with this mighty yet malleable building material we call rock.
Visitors to Big Bend National Park encounter not only a geologic wonder but also a wild, rugged wilderness populated by myriad desert and mountain plants and animals, ranging from box turtles and black-tailed jackrabbits to funny-looking javelina to powerful black bears and mountain lions. The park is considered a birders' paradise, with more species than at any other national park. It's also a wonderful spot to see wildflowers and the colorful display of cactus blooms.
For hikers, the park offers a tremendous variety of options, from easy walks to rugged backcountry routes that barely qualify as trails. There are also opportunities to let the Rio Grande do
the work, carrying watersports enthusiasts on rafts, canoes, and kayaks through canyons carved into 1,500 feet of solid rock. Adventurers with 4WDs enjoy exploring the backcountry roads, and history buffs enjoy a number of historical attractions and cultural experiences.
Avoiding the Crowds. Average annual visitation is just over 300,000. Although the park is relatively uncrowded much of the year, lodging and campgrounds fill during several periods: college spring break (usually Mar and early Apr), Easter weekend, Thanksgiving weekend, and the last week of December. Park visitation is generally highest in March and April, and lowest in August and September.
Although the park's visitor centers, campgrounds, and other developed facilities may be overburdened during busier times, visitors can still be practically alone simply by seeking out lesser-used hiking trails. Discuss your hiking skills and expectations with rangers, who can offer advice on the best areas to get away from the crowds.
Just the Facts
GETTING THERE & GATEWAYS
Big Bend National Park is not really close to anything except the Rio Grande and Mexico. There is no public transportation to or through the park.
Park headquarters is 108 miles southeast of the town of Alpine on Tex. 118, and 69 miles south of Marathon on U.S. 385. There is train and bus service to Alpine, where you'll also find car rentals and the nearest hospital to the park. For information, contact the Alpine Chamber of Commerce (☎ 800/561-3735 or 915/837-2326; www.alpinetexas.com).
From El Paso, 323 miles northwest of the park, take I-10 east 121 miles to Exit 140, follow U.S. 90 southeast 99 miles to Alpine, then turn south on Tex. 118 for 108 miles to park headquarters.
The Nearest Airport. The nearest airport is Midland International (☎ 432/ 560-2200; www.flymaf.com), 225 miles north and served by American Eagle, Continental, and Southwest. From the airport, located between Midland and Odessa, take I-20 west about 50 miles to Exit 80 for Tex. 18, which you follow south about 50 miles to Fort Stockton. There take U.S. 385 south 125 miles through Marathon to park headquarters. The major national companies rent cars. Toll-free numbers for airlines and car-rental agencies appear in the appendix (p. 660).
INFORMATION