Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [331]
Horseback Riding. Equestrian activities are very popular at Point Reyes, where all of the trails (save Bear Valley Trail on weekends and holidays) are horse-friendly. A good resource is Fivebrooks Ranch (☎ 415/663-1570; www.five brooks.com), located at the Five Brooks trailhead, 3.5 miles south of Olema on Highway 1. The ranch offers guided trail rides (horses provided) at prices ranging from $35 for an hour-long ride to $165 for a 6-hour beach ride. Horse boarding is available.
Kayaking. Blue Waters Kayaking (☎ 415/669-2600; www.tamalsaka.com) offers kayak trips, including 3-hour sunset outings, 3½-hour full-moon paddles, yoga tours, day trips, and longer excursions. Instruction and clinics are available, and all ages and skill levels are welcome. Prices start at $68 for tours. Four-hour rentals begin at $45 for one person, $65 for two. Basic skill classes last a full day and run $99. There are no waves to contend with in placid Tomales Bay, a haven for migrating birds and marine mammals. The launching point is on Calif. 1 at the Marshall Boatworks in Marshall, 8 miles north of Point Reyes Station.
Whale-Watching. Each year, gray whales (the barnacles make them appear gray) migrate from their winter breeding grounds in the warm waters off Baja California to their summer feeding grounds in Alaska. You can observe them as they undertake their 10,000-mile journey from just about anywhere in Point Reyes National Seashore. The most popular vantage point is the Point Reyes Lighthouse.
During peak season (Dec–Mar), you might see dozens of whales from the lighthouse, and the Lighthouse Visitor Center offers great displays on whale migration and maritime history. During this period, the Park Service runs a shuttle from Drakes Beach to the Point Reyes Lighthouse ($5 adults, free for children under 17), where watchers have been known to see as many as 100 whales in a single afternoon. Even if the whales don't materialize, the lighthouse itself, a fabulous old structure teetering high above the sea at the tip of a promontory, is worth a visit. Two other spots, Chimney Rock, east of the lighthouse, and Tomales Point, at the northern end of the park, offer just as many whales without the crowds.
Camping
Camping within the park is limited to four hike-in camps. Wildcat Camp, near Alamere Falls, is a 6.5-mile hike from Bear Valley trailhead. Coast Camp is on an open bluff, 2.3 beach miles west of the Limantour Beach parking lot. These camps near the sea are often foggy and damp, so bring a good tent and sleeping bag. Sky Camp (1.7 miles from Sky trailhead on Limantour Rd.) and Glen Camp (4.6 miles from the Bear Valley trailhead) are in the woods away from the sea, more protected from the coastal elements.
In all camps, individual sites hold up to eight people and have picnic tables and food lockers. Pit toilets are available. Stays are limited to 4 nights. Sites can be reserved up to 3 months in advance by calling ☎ 415/663-8054 Monday to Friday 9am to 2pm.
Just outside the park is the Olema Ranch Campground (☎ 415/663-8001; www.olemaranch.com), which accommodates tents and RVs and is close to restaurants and a grocery store. It's about a half-mile north of downtown Olema on Highway 1. Reservations are recommended, and you must be 21 or older to register.
Where to Stay
INSIDE THE PARK
Point Reyes Hostel
Off Limantour Rd. (P.O. Box 247), Point Reyes Station, CA 94956. ☎ 415/663-8811. 44 bunks, 1 family room. $16–$18 per person. MC, V. Reception daily 7:30–10am and 4:30–9:30pm.
Deep inside