Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [35]
Swimming is not recommended in the Rio Grande, even though it may look tantalizing on a hot summer day. Waste materials and waterborne microorganisms have been found in the river and can cause serious illness. Also, strong undercurrents, deep holes, and sharp rocks in shallow water are common. Should you decide to swim in spite of these conditions, be sure to wear a life jacket.
Wood or ground fires are prohibited in the park, and caution is advised when using camp stoves, charcoal grills, and cigarettes. Smoking is prohibited on all trails. Check at the visitor centers for current drought conditions and for any special restrictions that may be in effect when you visit.
Crossing the Rio Grande for a visit to Mexico was once a staple of a visit to Big Bend, but the Department of Homeland Security now frowns on the practice. DHS can slap violators with a $5,000 fine and a year of imprisonment.
SEASONS & CLIMATE
Weather here is generally mild to hot, although because of the vast range of elevations—from about 1,800 feet at the eastern end of Boquillas Canyon to 7,825 feet on Emory Peak in the Chisos Mountains—conditions can vary greatly throughout the park at any given time. Essentially, the higher you go, the cooler you can expect it to be. Higher elevations are also wetter, although no section of the park gets a lot of precipitation.
Summers here are hot, often well over 100°F (38°C) in the desert in May and June, and afternoon thunderstorms are common from July through September. Winters are usually mild, although temperatures occasionally drop below freezing, and light snow is possible, especially in the Chisos Mountains. Fall and spring are usually warm and pleasant.
If You Have Only 1 Day
Big Bend National Park is huge, and you can't hope to see all of it in 1 day or even 2. It's best to allow at least 3 days, essentially devoting 1 day each to the desert, river, and mountains. If you have a limited amount of time in the park, however, the best choice is to start with the Chisos Basin and see the mountains in the middle of the park. Take the short, easy Window View Trail, a self-guided nature trail (see "Day Hikes," below) that highlights the flora and fauna of the Chisos Mountains. Then head back down and drive the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive (see "Exploring the Park by Car," below) through the Chihuahuan Desert to the Rio Grande. If time allows, hike into Santa Elena Canyon (see "Day Hikes," below), one of the most beautiful canyons in the park. Finally, take in a ranger program at one of the park amphitheaters.
Exploring the Park by Car
The park has several paved roads—one goes through the park, and others take you to different sections. In addition, there are several roads that require high-clearance or four-wheel-drive vehicles (see "Backcountry Driving," later in this chapter).
The park has two scenic drives, both with sharp curves and steep inclines and not recommended for certain RVs and trailers (see "Special Regulations & Warnings," above).
The 7-mile Chisos Basin Drive climbs up Green Gulch to Panther Pass before dropping down into the basin. Near the pass are some sharp curves, and parts of the road are at a 10% grade. The views are wonderful any time of the year, and particularly when the wildflowers dot the meadows, hills, and roadsides. The best month for wildflowers is usually October, after the summer rains.
When you've breathed your fill of clear mountain air, head back down and turn west toward the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive through the Chihuahuan Desert and finally to the Rio Grande. This drive winds through the desert
on the west side of the Chisos Mountains, providing a different perspective. Afterward, it passes through Castolon and then continues