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Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [37]

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buildings, many stabilized by the National Park Service, that were constructed in the early 1900s by Mexican-American farmers, Anglo settlers, and the U.S. Army. The first is the 1901 Alvino House, the oldest surviving adobe structure in the park. Nearby is La Harmonia Store, built in 1920 to house cavalry troops during the Mexican Revolution but never actually used by soldiers because the war ended. Two civilians then purchased the building and converted it to a general store. The store continues to operate, selling snacks, groceries, and other necessities.

The village of Glenn Springs, in the southeast section of the park and accessible by dirt road off the main park highway, owes its creation to having a reliable water source in an otherwise arid area. It bears the name of a rancher called H. E. Glenn, who grazed horses in the area until he was killed by American Indians in the 1880s. By 1916 there were several ranches, a factory that produced wax from the candelilla plant, a store, a post office, and a residential village divided into two sections—one for Anglos and the other for Mexicans. But then Mexican bandit-revolutionaries crossed the border and attacked, killing and wounding a number of people, looting the store, and partially destroying the wax factory. Within 3 years the community was virtually deserted. Today, the spring still flows, and you can see the remains of several adobe buildings and other structures.

Remains of a small health resort are visible at the Hot Springs, accessible by hiking trail or dirt road, along the Rio Grande west of Rio Grande Village in the park's southeast section. Construction of the resort was begun in 1909 by J. O. Langford, who was forced to leave during the Mexican Revolution. Langford returned and completed the project in the 1920s, advertising the Hot Springs as "The Fountain of Youth that Ponce de León failed to find." Today you'll see the ruins of a general store and post office, other buildings, and a foundation that fills with natural mineral water, at about 105°F (41°C), creating a great place to soak off those post-hike aches and pains.

To get to the Marsical Mine, you will likely need a four-wheel-drive or high-clearance vehicle. Located in the south-central part of the park, it is easiest to reach from River Road East, which begins 5 miles west of Rio Grande Village. The mine operated on and off between 1900 and 1943, producing 1,400 76-pound flasks of mercury (almost one-quarter of the total amount of mercury produced in the United States during that time). Mining buildings, homes, the company store, a kiln, foundations, and other structures remain in what is now a National Historic District.

Also in the park, you can see some excellent examples of work the Civilian Conservation Corps performed in the 1930s and early 1940s. These include stone culverts along the Basin Road, the Lost Mine Trail, and several buildings, including some stone-and-adobe cottages that are still in use at the Chisos Mountain Lodge.

Day Hikes


SHORTER TRAILS

Boquillas Canyon Trail

1.4 miles RT. Moderate. Access: End of Boquillas Canyon Rd.

This hike, a good choice for those who want to see some of the area's birds, begins by climbing a low hill and then drops down to the Rio Grande, ending near a shallow cave and huge sand dune. It affords good views of the scenic canyon and the Mexican village of Boquillas, across the Rio Grande.

Burro Mesa Pour-Off

1 mile RT. Easy. Access: Parking area at end of Burro Mesa spur road, about 12 miles down Ross Maxwell Scenic Dr. on the west (right).

This short hike takes you to the bottom of a desert pour-off. The beginning of the trail is a well-marked path, but as you turn into Javelina Wash, it becomes less obvious; watch for the lines of rocks pointing the way. The trail has an elevation gain of about 60 feet. The pour-off is a long, narrow chute that is usually dry, but the extensive cut gives testimony to the power of rushing water after a heavy summer rain. Don't attempt to climb to the top from

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