Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [375]
Bubbs Creek Trail
8 miles RT. Moderate to strenuous. Access: East end of parking area at Road's End.
The trail begins by crossing and recrossing Copper Creek. This site was once an American Indian village, and shards of obsidian can still be found on the ground (please leave them in place). After the first mile, you'll enter a swampy area that offers a good place to watch for wildlife. The trail here closes in on the river, where deer and bear drink. At 2 miles, you'll come to a junction. The trail to Paradise Valley heads north (left); the hike to Bubbs Creek veers right and crosses Bailey Bridge, over the South Fork of the Kings River.
Continue hiking east over four small wooden bridges that cross Bubbs Creek. The creek was named after John Bubbs, a prospector and rancher who arrived here in 1864. The trail climbs on the creek's north side, following a few steep switchbacks, which provide alternating views of the canyon of Paradise Valley and Cedar Grove. At 3 miles is a large, emerald pool with waterfalls, and far above is a rock formation that John Muir named "the Sphinx." At 4 miles you reach Sphinx Creek, a good area to spend the day or night (with a wilderness permit). There are several campsites nearby. Hike back the way you came or along the Sentinel Trail (described below).
Mist Falls
8 miles RT. Moderate to strenuous. Access: Short-term parking area at Road's End; pass Cedar Grove Village and follow signs.
This is one of the more popular trails leading to the backcountry, but it's also a nice day hike. The first 2 miles, before you reach Bubbs Creek Bridge, are dry. Take the fork to the left and head uphill. The first waterfall is not your destination, although it is a pretty spot to take a break. From here, the trail meanders along the river, through forest and swamp areas, before it comes out at the base of Mist Falls, a wide fall that flows generously in spring. There are dozens of great picnic spots here and along the way up. Return along the same route, or cross over at Bubbs Creek Bridge and head back on the Sentinel Trail (described below). This will add a mile to the hike. From Mist Falls, you can also continue to Paradise Valley (described below).
Muir's Rock
100 yards RT. Easy. Access: Parking area at Road's End, along the trail to Zumwalt Meadow.
This level, simple, short stroll takes you to one of the most historically significant spots in the park's modern-day history. From this wide, flat rock, John Muir delivered impassioned speeches about the Sierra.
Paradise Valley
12 miles RT. Moderate to strenuous. Access: Short-term parking area at Road's End; pass Cedar Grove Village and follow signs.
This is a great overnight hike because the valley is so pretty and there's much to explore. But it can also be an ambitious day hike. Follow the Mist Falls trail (described above), and then head up 3 miles of switchbacks to Paradise Valley. The beautiful valley is 3 miles long and relatively flat. Hike through the valley to connect with the John Muir Trail and the rest of the backcountry, or return the way you came.
River Trail
5.5 miles RT. Easy. Access: From Cedar Grove Ranger Station, drive 3 miles to Roaring River Falls parking area.
The trail hugs the river and can be shorter if you want to walk just to the waterfalls (.5 mile round-trip) or Zumwalt Meadows (3 miles round-trip; a shorter version is listed below). The waterfalls are .25 mile along the trail. The falls are short but powerful. Do not attempt to climb them. Just north of the falls, back toward the parking area, is a sign that reads ZUMWALT MEADOW— ROAD'S END. Take this trail, which hugs the highway before breaking off into a beautiful canyon.
At 1.5 miles is the Zumwalt Bridge. If you cross the bridge, you'll be a quarter mile from the Zumwalt Meadow parking area. To stay on the River Trail, don't cross the bridge—continue up the canyon for another quarter of a mile to Zumwalt Meadow. From here there's a slight incline. In a half-mile you'll reach a fork; head