Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [401]
Among the many highlights of the area is the Norris Geyser Basin Museum, a single-story stone-and-log building with several excellent exhibits explaining the nature of the area. Also nearby is the Museum of the National Park Ranger, which is little more than a room full of artifacts in a small building near the campground (discussed later). Both museums are open from mid- to late May, weather permitting, until September; hours vary by season, but you can expect the museums to be open from 9 or 10am to 5 or 6pm during the busiest times (roughly Memorial Day to Labor Day; again, weather is a factor).
NORRIS TO MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS
From Norris Geyser Basin, it's a 21-mile drive north to Mammoth Hot Springs, past the Twin Lakes, beautiful, watery jewels surrounded by trees. During the early months of the park year, the water is milky green because of the runoff of ice and snow. This is an excellent place to call timeout and do some bird-watching.
This stretch of road, between Norris Junction and Mammoth Hot Springs, presents yet another excellent opportunity to see the effects of the 1988 fire. The large meadow on the west (left, if you are traveling north) side of the highway that begins 3 miles from Norris is popular with moose, thanks to water from bogs, marshes, and a creek. As you travel alongside Obsidian Creek, you'll notice the smell of sulfur in the air, evidence of thermal vents.
On the east (right, if you are traveling north) side of the road, 4 miles from Norris, is Roaring Mountain, a patch of ground totally devoid of brush and plant life, covered with trees and stumps from the fire. Its bareness is attributed to the fact that, as steam vents developed here, the ground became too hot and acidic, which bleached and crumbled the rock, taking the undergrowth with it. Historians say that the noise from the Roaring Mountain was once so loud that it could be heard as far as 4 miles away; these days it is nearly silent.
Just up the road 2 miles is the Beaver Lake Picnic Area, an excellent little spot for a snack right on Beaver Lake. It's also a good place to keep an eye out for moose.
As you wend your way a half-mile to Obsidian Cliff, across the road from the picnic area the terrain changes quickly, and you'll find yourself driving through a narrow valley bisected by a beautiful green stream. Obsidian Cliff is where ancient peoples of North America gathered to collect obsidian, a hard, black rock that was used to make weapons and implements.
If you didn't stop at Beaver Lake, consider taking time for the 3-minute detour to Sheepeater Cliffs (unless you're driving an RV or pulling a trailer). This quiet, secluded spot on the banks of the Gardner River is home to yellow-bellied marmots that live in the rocks, safe from flying predators (such as eagles) and coyotes.
Exiting the valley, head north onto a high plateau, where you'll find Swan Lake, which is surrounded by Little Quadrant Mountain and Antler Peak to the west, and Bunsen Peak to the north.
At the northernmost edge of the Yellowstone Plateau, you'll begin a descent through Golden Gate. This steep, narrow stretch of road was once a stagecoach route constructed of wooden planks anchored to the mountain by a massive rock called the Pillar of Hercules, the largest rock in an unmarked pile that sits next to the road.
From the 45th parallel parking area on the north entrance road north of Mammoth Hot Springs, a short hike leads to the Boiling River. Here you can take a dip, during daylight hours, where a hot spring empties into the Gardner River.
MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS
The large Albright Visitor Center, near park headquarters, has more visitor information and publications than other centers. You'll probably want to stop in.
Though it's possible to see most of the wildlife and the major thermal areas here from behind car windows, getting out of your vehicle and expending a small amount of energy will greatly enhance your experience of the