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summer they accept hard-sided vehicles only. All three are first-come, first-served, so it's best to stake out a spot early. The heavily forested Bakers Hole, just 3 miles north of West Yellowstone on U.S. 191, is popular because of its fishing access. Both tents and RVs are accepted, but there are no hookups. Lonesomehurst, 8 miles west of the park on U.S. 20, then 4 miles north on Hebgen Lake Road, is only one-third the size of Bakers Hole and fills up quickly in summer. It has tent and RV sites, some of them right on the shore of Hebgen Lake. To reach Rainbow Point, drive 5 miles north of West Yellowstone on U.S. 191, then 3 miles west on Forest Service Road 610, then north for 2 miles on Forest Service Road 6954. Tucked away in the forest near Hebgen Lake, it accommodates both tents and RVs (no hookups) and has boating and fishing access. For further information on these campgrounds, call the Hebgen Lake Ranger District (☎ 406/823-6961). You can find a wealth of information on the Forest Service website (www.fs.fed.us/gallatin).

Where to Stay

INSIDE THE PARK

If you're coming at the height of summer, book ahead! Contact Xanterra Parks & Resorts, P.O. Box 165, Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190 (☎ 307/ 344-7311; www.travelyellowstone.com), for lodging in the park. Accommodations are normally open from early summer to late October. Mammoth Hot Springs and Old Faithful Snow Lodge then reopen for the winter season, from mid-December through mid-March.

Another option is Flagg Ranch Resort (see chapter 17). Only 2 miles from Yellowstone's south entrance, it's a convenient jumping-off point for exploring the southern reaches of the park, as well as Grand Teton.

MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS AREA

Mammoth's distance from key attractions such as Old Faithful and the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone makes it one of the last places to fill up. Despite that, it's a good base, home to the park's best visitor center as well as colorful limestone terraces.

Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel and Cabins

At Mammoth Hot Springs (P.O. Box 165), Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190. ☎ 307/ 344-7311. Fax 307/344-7456. www.travel yellowstone.com. 212 units. $75–$107 double; $65–$100 cabin; $164 hot tub cabin; $301 suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V.

This historic building stands below the steaming, stair-stepping terraces of Mammoth Hot Springs, only 5 miles from the north entrance. It began life as a hostelry in 1911 and was replaced by a lodge in 1937. The hotel's dormer windows and wood floors are attractive, and the high-ceilinged lobby is comfortable and relatively quiet. The only high-end accommodations are the suites. Standard rooms and cabins are arranged around three grassy areas, where elk often graze. If you require a tub, be sure to request one when you make your reservation; otherwise, you may get a cramped, old-fashioned shower stall. The cabins are cottage-style buildings that are among the best in the park; some have private hot tubs and sun decks. A formal dining room and a fast-food restaurant are in a separate building; nearby amenities include a medical clinic, a grocery store, stables, and a filling station.

CANYON VILLAGE AREA

Standing at the center of Canyon Village, you may feel as though you're in a mall parking lot. With one of the park's biggest attractions close by, this is one of its busiest areas. It's certainly a plus, though, that the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone is a short walk from the center of the village.

Canyon Lodge and Cabins

Canyon Village (P.O. Box 165), Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190. ☎ 307/344-7311. Fax 307/344-7456. www.travelyellowstone.com. 605 units. $142 double; $45–$132 cabin. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Closed Oct to late May.

This lodge and cabin complex is one of the newer facilities in the park, but it can't escape the Disneyland-style atmosphere of Canyon Village. The two lodges are similar, offering tastefully appointed motel-style accommodations (Dunraven is a bit more modern, with an elevator, and nicely positioned on the edge of a woodland area).