Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [429]
If you're not apt to take off on your own, one of the best ways to spend your time wisely is to take one of the guided tours (see "Organized Tours & Ranger Programs," below). But if group activities aren't really your cup of tea, try the following sites on your own.
The base of Lower Yosemite Fall (shuttle bus stop no. 6) is an easy walk from the parking lot across from Yosemite Lodge. The hike is described in greater detail below. From here, you can see a portion of the magnificent water show. During peak runoff, when the force of the falls sends spray in every direction, it's not uncommon to get wet. In late winter and early spring, a huge snow cone caused by freezing water rises up to 300 feet at the base of this fall.
Happy Isles (shuttle bus stop no. 16) is another major attraction. Located at the convergence of several inlets, it's the site of the valley's nature center. This is also the trailhead for Vernal and Nevada falls, two picturesque staircase waterfalls accessible only on foot. Both are described later in this chapter.
Next, we recommend a visit to Mirror Lake (shuttle bus stop no. 17), a small lake named for the near-perfect way it reflects the surrounding scenery. It's slowly filling up with silt and is less dramatic and mirror-like than it used to be, but its shore still offers a beautiful view of Half Dome. This short stroll is well marked and described below.
Exploring the Park by Car or Shuttle
It's relatively easy to find your way around Yosemite. All road signs are clear and visible. You'll soon realize that everything leads to a one-way road that hugs the valley's perimeter. To get from one side to the other, you can either drive the entire loop or travel one of the few bridges over the Merced River. It's easy to find yourself heading in the wrong direction on the one-way road, so be alert whenever you merge.
In addition to the year-round shuttle bus in Yosemite Valley, Wawona and Tuolumne Meadows offer a similar service during summer months only. Driving in any of these places during peak season—or even off season in the valley—is a surefire way to miss important sights and spend too much time stuck in traffic.
YOSEMITE VALLEY
Many people come to Yosemite National Park solely to see Yosemite Valley, which can be simply described as a giant study in shadow and light. In spring, after winter snow begins melting in the high country, waterfalls encircle the valley, shimmering like a diamond necklace. There are wide, beautiful meadows, towering trees, and the ever-present sound of rushing water in the background.
Yosemite Valley consists of three developed areas. Just about all the hotels, restaurants, and shops are in Yosemite Village, Yosemite Lodge, and Curry Village. Curry Village (also called Camp Curry) and Yosemite Lodge offer the bulk of the park's overnight accommodations. Curry Village is near shuttle bus stop nos. 13A, 13B, 14, 20, and 21. Yosemite Lodge is at stop no. 8. Both locations have restaurants and a small grocery. The lodge has a large public swimming pool, and Curry Village has an ice rink (open in winter).
Yosemite Village (shuttle bus stop no. 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, or 10) is the largest developed region in the valley. It is home to the park's largest visitor center and the headquarters for the National Park Service in Yosemite, as well as for Yosemite Concession Services, the contractor that runs most of the park's accommodations and restaurants. The village also has a host of stores and shops, including a grocery, restaurants, the valley's only medical clinic, a dentist, a post office, a beauty shop, and an ATM.
Also, check out the Yosemite Pioneer Cemetery, a peaceful graveyard in the shade of tall sequoias with headstones dating from the 1800s. (Pick up the self-guiding booklet at the nearby visitor center.) There are about 36 marked graves, identifiable by horizontal slabs of rock, some etched with crude or faded writing. Buried here are some notables in Yosemite history, such as James Lamon, an early settler