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By Root 3071 0

east of the park's north entrance on FM 2627 is Stillwell Store and RV Park, HC 65, Box 430, Alpine, TX 79830 (☎/fax 432/376-2244; www.stillwellstore.com), a casual RV park in desert terrain. There are two areas across the road from each other. The west side has full hookups. The east side has water and electric only, but it also features horse corrals and plenty of room for horse trailers. There is also almost unlimited space for tenters, who pay $5 per person. The park office is at the Stillwell Store, where you can get groceries, limited camping supplies, and gasoline. A small museum (donations accepted) features exhibits from the Stillwell family's pioneer days.

About 3 miles from the west entrance to the park is Terlingua Oasis RV Park, part of the Big Bend Motor Inn complex at the junction of Tex. 118 and FM 170 (P.O. Box 336, Terlingua, TX 79852; ☎ 800/848-BEND or 432/371-2218). This park offers pull-through and back-in sites, grassy tent areas, gasoline and diesel fuel, a restaurant (see "Where to Dine," below), a convenience store, and a gift shop.

Where to Stay

INSIDE THE PARK

Chisos Mountains Lodge

Chisos Basin, Big Bend National Park, TX 79834-9999. ☎ 432/477-2291. www.chisos mountainslodge.com. 72 units. $89–$105 double; summer discounts available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted.

The lodge offers a variety of accommodations, from simple motel rooms to historic stone cottages. Motel rooms are small and simply decorated but well maintained. They have two double beds, air-conditioning, tub/shower combos, and terrific views of the Chisos Mountains, but no telephones or TVs. The Casa Grande Motor Lodge, part of the Chisos Mountains Lodge, offers somewhat larger motel rooms, air-conditioned and attractively furnished, with tiled bathrooms and tub/shower combos; most have two beds. Each room has a private balcony.

Built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s, the six delightful stone cottages are our choice. Each has stone floors, a front patio, wooden furniture, three double beds, and shower only. Book as far in advance as possible. The lodge units are the least expensive accommodations and are a bit more rustic. They have one double and one single bed, a tiled bath, tub/shower combo, wood furnishings, painted brick walls with Western or Southwestern art (or both), and good views.

NEAR THE PARK

Big Bend Motor Inn

Junction of Tex. 118 and FM 170 (P.O. Box 336), Terlingua, TX 79852. ☎ 800/848-BEND or 432/371-2218. Fax 432/371-2555. www.tex besthotels.com. 86 units. A/C TV TEL. $80 double; $95–$105 suite with kitchen. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V.

About 3 miles from the west entrance to the park, this standard American motel offers simple but comfortable rooms, most with one king bed or two queen-size beds. Some have kitchenettes, and two units each have a bedroom, a living room, and a kitchen. There are also a few smaller rooms with one queen bed.

Chisos Mining Co. Motel

FM 170, about ¾ mile west of Tex. 118 (P.O. Box 228), Terlingua, TX 79852. ☎ 432/371-2254. www.cmcm.cc. 36 units, including 9 cabins and 6 condos. A/C. $49–$70 double or cabin; $115–$175 condo. AE, DISC, MC, V.

This colorful, homey motel is well kept and personably run. The rooms have tub/shower combos; some have TVs. Cabins, also with tub/shower combos, have fully equipped kitchens but no TVs. Six condo units went up between 2003 and 2005; they feature full kitchens, cable TV, and separate living and sleeping rooms. There's also a curio shop on the premises.

Lajitas, the Ultimate Hideout

HC 70 (P.O. Box 400), Lajitas, TX 79852. ☎ 877/535-4827 or 432/424-5000. Fax 432/424-3344. www.lajitas.com. 92 units. A/C TV TEL. $235–$350 double; $325–$410 suite. AE, DISC, MC, V.

Remote to say the least, Lajitas is a historic village–turned–luxury resort presided over by Mayor Clay Henry, a beer-swilling billy goat. (There's a heck of a story here, but it's a long one.) The guest rooms—which range from former officer's quarters on a onetime cavalry post to more modern units in