Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [434]
Half Dome
17 miles RT. Very strenuous. Access: Happy Isles (shuttle bus stop no. 16).
This long, steep trip, which about 1,000 hikers do each summer day, climbs 4,900 feet. From Happy Isles, take the Mist Trail or the John Muir Trail past Vernal and Nevada falls, and up into Little Yosemite Valley. Leave the John Muir Trail for the Half Dome Trail. Hiking the final 600 feet up the back of Half Dome requires the use of cables, and a strong heart is helpful, too. Half Dome has a small level spot on top, at an elevation of 8,800 feet. It's possible to cut the length of the trip by camping in Little Yosemite Valley (you'll need a wilderness permit).
Lower Yosemite Fall
.5 mile RT. Easy. Access: From shuttle bus stop no. 6, follow paved path from Yosemite Fall parking area to base of waterfall.
Lower Yosemite Fall reaches 320 feet, but it packs the accumulated punch of the entire 2,425-foot waterfall, and from early spring through midsummer, you're likely to get wet. You can also take this trip from Yosemite Village by following the path from the Valley Visitor Center to the trailhead. Add another half-mile (40 min.) each way. This walk is wheelchair accessible with assistance.
Mirror Lake
2 miles RT. Easy. Access: Shuttle bus stop no. 17.
This paved trail climbs about 60 feet along the west side of Tenaya Creek to Mirror Lake, where you'll likely see overhanging rock formations reflected in the lake's still surface. This trail connects with a delightful 3-mile loop around the lake.
Mist Trail to Vernal Fall
3 miles RT. Moderate to strenuous. Access: From Happy Isles (shuttle bus stop no. 16), walk to Happy Isles Bridge. Cross bridge and follow signs to the trail.
This hike begins on the famous 211-mile John Muir Trail to Mount Whitney in Sequoia National Park. From the Happy Isles Bridge, the trail climbs 400 feet to the Vernal Fall Bridge, which offers a good view of what lies ahead, as well as water and restrooms. From this point, you can either take a series of switchbacks along the side of the mountain and come out above the fall, or you can ascend the Mist Trail (our preference), which is a steep climb with 500 steps—it's wet, picturesque, and refreshing. The Mist Trail is so named because the spray from the fall drenches anyone who tackles this route, especially in spring. Be warned: It's slick and requires careful placement of your feet. Once you reach the top, you can relax on a series of smooth granite beaches and soak in the cool, refreshing water before hiking back down.
Panorama Trail
9 miles one-way. Moderate to strenuous. Access: Glacier Point, at east end of the parking area.
From Glacier Point, this trail drops 3,200 feet. At one of its prettiest points, it crosses Illilouette Fall about 1.5 miles from Glacier Point. The path continues along the Panorama Cliff and eventually winds up at Nevada Fall, where it's a straight descent to Yosemite Valley on the Mist or John Muir trail. You can hike this trail in conjunction with the Four-Mile Trail, and it's also possible to take a bus to Glacier Point and hike only one-way.
Upper Yosemite Fall
7.2 miles RT. Strenuous. Access: Shuttle bus stop no. 7; trailhead next to Camp 4 Walk-in Campground, behind Yosemite Lodge.
Climb this 2,700-foot trail and you'll be rewarded with spectacular views from the ledge above the fall. Keep in mind, however, that this hike is not for the faint of heart. Take it slow, rest often, and absorb the scenery as you ascend higher and higher above the valley. One mile up, you'll reach Columbia Rock, which offers a good view. The rest of the trail dips and climbs, and you'll get a bit of mist from the fall above. The last quarter mile is rocky and steep, with a series of tortuous, seemingly endless switchbacks that ascend through underbrush before opening at a clearing near the top of the fall, but beware—the view here can induce vertigo. After completing the trail, it's a worthwhile walk upstream