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Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [438]

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to the outlet of Mildred Lake. There you'll be able to see Mount Hoffmann, Tuolumne Peak, and Tenaya Canyon. At the halfway mark, the trail passes through a hemlock grove, then comes to a junction. Head left. (The trail on the right goes toward Cloud's Rest.) About .25 mile from the junction you'll reach Lower Sunrise Lake, tucked into the slope of Sunrise Mountain. The trail climbs past Middle Sunrise Lake and continues upward along a cascading creek coming from Upper Sunrise Lake. The trail follows the lake's shore and opens in less than

.5 mile onto a wide, bare sandy pass. It's all downhill from here. Before you is the snowcapped Clark Range. The trail begins its descent, sharply switching back and forth in some places. A backpackers' camp lies a short distance above Upper Sunrise Lake.

Tioga Lake to Dana Lake

4.6 miles RT. Moderate to strenuous. Access: Calif. 120 to Tioga Lake. Trailhead is on west side of lake, about 1 mile east of the pass.

This is a less crowded alternative to the above hike to Mount Dana; it doesn't top the mountain, although that option is available for experienced hikers on the Mount Dana Trail. The trail is not maintained, although it is fairly visible. This area is easily damaged, so be sure to tread lightly. Mount Dana looms large from the lake's shore.

Vogelsang

14.4 miles RT. Moderate to strenuous. Access: Tioga Rd. to Tuolumne Meadows; watch for signposted trailhead for John Muir Trail and Lyell Fork.

This hike climbs to a high meadow offering spectacular views. The trail goes south through the woods to a footbridge over the Dana Fork. Cross the bridge and follow the John Muir Trail upstream. Head right at the next fork. The trail crosses the Lyell Fork on a footbridge. Take the left fork a couple hundred feet ahead. Continue onward, and just before you cross the bridge at Rafferty Creek, you'll reach another junction. Veer right and prepare for switchbacks up a rocky slope. The trail climbs steeply for about .25 mile, then levels off as it darts toward and away from Rafferty Creek for the next 4 miles. The trail gradually ascends to Tuolumne Pass, crossing many small creeks and tributaries en route. Two small tarns mark the pass. One drains south and the other north. Just south of the tarns, the trail splits. Veer left. (The right fork offers a 2-mile round-trip jaunt to Boothe Lake.) You'll climb to a meadow with great views, at 10,180 feet.

Overnight Hikes


Of the more than four million people who visit Yosemite each year, 95% never leave the valley, but the brave 5% who do are well rewarded. A wild, lonelier Yosemite awaits just a few miles from the crowds. You'll find some of the most grandiose landscapes in the Sierra, as well as excellent opportunities for backpacking. Check with park rangers for tips on where to go and how to prepare for your backpacking trip.

All overnight backpacking stays require a wilderness permit, available by phone, by mail, or in the park. Permits can be reserved 2 days to 4 months in advance and cost $5 for each individual on the permit. Call ☎ 209/372-0740 or write to Wilderness Permits, P.O. Box 545, Yosemite National Park, CA 95389.

If planning isn't your style, first-come, first-served permits are available up to 24 hours before your trip. Permit stations are at the Yosemite Valley Visitor Center and Wawona Information Station year-round, and at Big Oak Flat Information Station in Tuolumne Meadows in summer. Permits for the popular trails, such as those leading to Half Dome, Little Yosemite Valley, and Cloud's Rest, go quickly. Call ☎ 209/372-0200 for permit station locations and hours.

Other Sports & Activities


About the only thing you can't do in Yosemite is surf. In addition to sightseeing, the park is a great place to bike, ski, rock climb, fish, and even golf.

Bicycling. Twelve miles of designated bike trails cross the eastern end of Yosemite Valley, which is the best place to ride because roads and shuttle bus routes are usually crowded and dangerous for bicyclists. Children under

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