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smaller, quieter, cleaner Curry Village with larger tents, each equipped with a wood-burning stove. White Wolf Lodge is not a lodge, but a cluster of canvas tent cabins, with a few wooden ones out front. This small outpost was bypassed when Tioga Road was rebuilt. It's halfway between the valley and the high country, and it generally isn't overrun with visitors. It's a popular spot for midweek hikers and weekend stopovers. Though at times crowded, it retains a homey feeling. There's no electricity after 11pm, when the generator shuts off. Wood cabins all have a private bathroom and resemble a regular motel room, with neat little porches and chairs out front. Canvas cabins beat the Curry Village style by a mile. Each sleeps four in any combination of twin and double beds. The helpful staff will show guests how to work the wood-burning stove. Benches outside provide a place to rest weary feet and watch the stars. Bathrooms here are clean, and guests control access to the facilities except for a few midday hours when nearby campers can pay for showers. There's also a restaurant (see "Where to Dine," below) and a tiny general store.

Yosemite Lodge at the Falls

Yosemite Valley. ☎ 559/252-4848. 245 units. $113–$162 double. Lower rates Nov–Mar. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking available, or take the shuttle bus (stop no. 8).

The comfortable motel-type rooms here are popular because of the lodge's location; some units offer views of Yosemite Falls. Rooms have two double beds or one double with two twins, and most have balconies or patios. It's not uncommon to see deer and other wildlife scamper through this area. Spring mornings offer a wonderful orchestra of songbirds and some stunning views of Yosemite Falls at sunrise.

Reservations in advance are recommended. The complex contains a food court (see "Where to Dine," below), lounge, large outdoor swimming pool, bicycle rentals, children's programs, ice-cream stand, general store, a tour desk, and babysitting.

Yosemite West Lodging

P.O. Box 36, Yosemite National Park, CA 95389. ☎ 559/642-2211. www.yosenmitewest reservations.com. Number of units varies. TV. Most units $115–$295 double. Lower rates early Sept through mid-Dec and early Jan through early May. Take Wawona Rd. 12 miles north of Wawona.

For the unforgettable experience of living in Yosemite National Park (if only for a few nights), rather than just visiting, what could be better than renting a private home, cottage, or condominium right in the park? Yosemite West rents a variety of privately owned accommodations, ranging from fairly simple rooms with one queen-size bed and a kitchenette, suitable for one or two people, to luxurious vacation homes with full-size kitchens, two bathrooms, living rooms, and beds for up to eight people. Kitchens and kitchenettes are fully equipped, all bedding is provided, and lodgings have TVs, VCR/DVD players, and outdoor decks. All units also have gas or wood-burning fireplaces. The homes are in a forested section of the park, about 10 miles from Yosemite Valley and 8 miles from Badger Pass.

OUTSIDE THE PARK

If you choose to stay outside the park, you'll find a plethora of choices, many of which are less expensive than the lodging in the park.

ALONG CALIF. 120 (WEST OF THE PARK)

Friends of Yosemite Lodge

13349 Clements Rd., Groveland, CA 95321. ☎ 866/410-4545 or 209/962-4544. www.friendsofyosemitelodge.com. 4 units. $169–$189 double; $275 suite. One-time $10 donation to education-oriented nonprofit required. Room rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V.

The yellow clapboard 1990 home southeast of downtown Groveland is a delightful B&B with a tasteful "Yosemite luminaries" theme. Downstairs, the John Muir Room holds a comfortable king lodgepole bed and books about Muir, a Yosemite fanatic and pioneering conservationist. Upstairs, the Ansel Adams Room is distinguished by its black-and-white photographs by Adams. The Jenny Curry Room is frillier, with a skylight and a vanity next to the bed. The suite is a converted mother-in-law apartment