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Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [449]

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outside the national park's Arch Rock entrance, this lodge offers accommodations on the Merced River. Many of the rooms are brand new or recently refurbished. Many units feature fireplaces, balconies or patios, kitchenettes, and spa tubs for two. There are four pools and six hot tubs on the premises.

ALONG CALIF. 41

Château du Sureau

48688 Victoria Lane (P.O. Box 577), Oakhurst, CA 93644. ☎ 559/683-6860. Fax 559/683-0800. www.chateausureau.com. 11 units. A/C. $350–$550 double; $2,800 guesthouse. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V.

One of the standout B&Bs in all of California (for that matter, the entire U.S.), the lavish Château du Sureau is as close as you can get to Europe on the west side of the Atlantic. A world away from the rest of Oakhurst, the 9,000-square-foot inn has an elegant, near-magical ambience (which you pay for in spades). The atmosphere radiates from the villa that houses the stylish, uniquely decorated guest rooms, such as the extraordinary Saffron Room, with its king-sized ebony and ivory bedroom set from 1834, and the Sweet Geranium Room, with a private balcony overlooking sumptuous gardens and a canopied king bed. There are details both rustic (fresh fruit and fireplaces) and modern (CD players), and scads of impressive art objects around every corner. The grounds are similarly phenomenal— featuring a lawn-sized chessboard with 3-foot pawns!—and the restaurant, Erna's Elderberry House, is sublime (see "Where to Dine," below). There's also an outdoor swimming pool and a bocce court.

The Homestead

41110 Rd. 600, Ahwahnee, CA 93601. ☎ 559/683-0495. Fax 559/683-8165. www.homesteadcottages.com. 5 cottages, 1 house. $145–$219 double; $349–$374 house. DISC, MC, V. Go 4½ miles north of Oakhurst on Calif. 49, then south on Rd. 600 for 2½ miles.

Secluded on 160 acres of woodland with plenty of trails, this off-the-beaten-path establishment is a gem. The delightful cottages are rustic yet modern, with four-poster log beds, Saltillo tile floors, stone fireplaces, and separate sitting and dining areas. They also have such conveniences as cable TV, air-conditioning, hair dryers, and irons. Each unit has a unique bent, from the romantic Garden Cottage to the cozy Star Gazing Loft to the two-bedroom Ranch House (the only family-friendly option at this adult-oriented getaway). Kitchens are part of the package in all rooms; smoking is not allowed.

Hounds Tooth Inn

42971 Calif. 41, Oakhurst, CA 93644. ☎ 888/ 642-6610 or 559/642-6600. Fax 559/658-2946. www.houndstoothinn.com. 13 units. A/C TV TEL. $95–$175 double, $225 cottage. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V.

With a Victorian look and a 1997 birth date, the Hound's Tooth is a good choice for those who want easy access to Yosemite from the south but more intimacy than a motel or sprawling resort can offer. Set a few hundred feet from the highway, the guest rooms offer the convenience of kitchenette and hot tub, plus the flair of antique reproductions. There's also a private summer house (850 sq. ft.) with a king bed and a kitchenette, plus a Jacuzzi and private patio. The garden area out back is something of a work of art, perfect for whiling away an evening in peace and quiet. The inn is nonsmoking.

Tenaya Lodge

1122 Calif. 41, Fish Camp, CA 93623. ☎ 800/ 635-5807 or 559/683-6555. Fax 559/683-0249. www.tenayalodge.com. 244 units. A/C MINIBAR TV TEL. $149–$359 double; $350–$659 suite. Buffet breakfast $30 per couple. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V.

The top-rated Tenaya Lodge seems to have one foot in the Adirondack Mountains and another in the Southwest. The 3- and 4-story resort sits on 35 acres surrounded by Sierra National Forest and features a full slate of organized recreational activities. The comfortable rooms are ultramodern, with multiple phones and a built-in safe, and the lobby has an impressive three-story fireplace built of river rock. There are three restaurants—a moderately priced deli, a moderate-to-expensive bar and grill (burgers, sandwiches, salads, pizza, and the like), and an upscale and elegant fine dining

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