Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [46]
Despite this bloody chain of events, the remaining members of the Burgess family lived in the fort until 1926, when it was abandoned and began to fall into ruin. It was donated to the state in 1968 and has been partially restored so today's visitors can get a good sense of what life was like at a trading-post fort in the untamed frontier of the 19th century. Twenty-five rooms are open to the public by guided (45–60 min.) or self-guided tour. The guided tours are especially good, giving visitors the guide's perspective on the building's violent past.
Fort Leaton State Historic Site includes a museum, with exhibits on the human history of the area—from the prehistoric American Indians who farmed here in the 15th century to the Spanish and Mexican colonizers who followed, and finally the Anglo Americans who arrived in the mid-1800s, including, of course, those who built and lived in Fort Leaton. The park holds periodic living-history demonstrations, such as how to make adobe bricks, blacksmithing, 19th-century cooking, and the like. The historic site is open daily from 8am to 4:30pm (closed Dec 25).
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BLACK CANYON OF THE GUNNISON NATIONAL PARK
by Don & Barbara Laine
EARLY AMERICAN INDIANS AND, LATER, UTES AND ANGLOS AVOIDED the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, believing that no human could survive a trip through its depths. Now, the deepest and most spectacular 14 miles of this 48-mile canyon comprise
one of America's newest national parks.
The Black Canyon, which had been a national monument since 1933, became a national park on October 21, 1999. In a statement issued after the bill signing ceremony, Pres. Bill Clinton called it a "true natural treasure," adding, "Its nearly vertical walls, rising a half-mile high, harbor one of the most spectacular stretches of wild river in America."
The Black Canyon ranges in depth from 1,730 to 2,700 feet. Its width at its narrowest point (cleverly called "The Narrows") is only 40 feet at the river. This deep slash in the earth was created through 2 million years of erosion, a process that's still going on—although the damming of the Gunnison River above the park has slowed it. At 30,300 acres, the Black Canyon is among the smallest of America's national parks.
Most visitors view the canyon from the South Rim Road, site of the visitor center, or the less used North Rim Road. Short paths branching off both roads lead to splendid viewpoints with signs explaining the canyon's unique geology.
The park has hiking trails along both rims and backcountry hiking routes down into the canyon, and offers excellent trout fishing for ambitious anglers willing to make the trek to the canyon floor. It also provides an abundance of thrills for the experienced rock climbers who challenge its sheer canyon walls. In winter, much of the park is closed to motor vehicles, but it's a delight for cross-country skiers and snowshoers.
The Black Canyon shares its eastern boundary with Curecanti National Recreation Area, which offers boating and fishing on three reservoirs, as well as hiking and camping.
Avoiding the Crowds. Although overcrowding has not been much of a problem in the past, with fewer than 200,000 people visiting each year, visitation is expected to increase now that the Black Canyon has gained national park status. Summer is the busiest time, with more than half the park visitors arriving between Memorial Day and Labor Day. December through February is the quietest time. Those seeking solitude should visit