Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [462]
Although mountain bikes are prohibited on the trails of Zion National Park (except the Pa'rus Trail), just outside the park—mostly on Bureau of Land Management and state property— are numerous rugged jeep trails that are great for mountain biking, plus more than 100 miles of slickrock cross-country trails and single-track trails. Talk with the knowledgeable staff at Springdale Cycle Tours about the best trails for your interests and abilities. This full-service bike shop offers maps, a full range of bikes and accessories, repairs, and rentals ($35–$45 for a full day, $25–$35 for a half day). The company also offers full-day guided mountain bike trips outside the park (priced at $145 per person for two people, with lower per-person rates for larger groups), plus a variety of multiday excursions.
Horseback Riding. Guided rides in the park are available March through October from Canyon Trail Rides, P.O.
Box 128, Tropic, UT 84776 (☎ 435/ 679-8665; www.canyonrides.com), with ticket sales and information near Zion Lodge. A 1-hour ride along the Virgin River costs $30; a half-day ride on the Sand Beach Trail costs $55. Riders must weigh no more than 220 pounds, and children must be at least 7 years old for the 1-hour ride and 10 years old for the half-day ride. Reservations are advised.
Rock Climbing. Expert technical rock climbers like the tall sandstone cliffs in Zion Canyon, although rangers warn that much of the rock is loose, or "rotten," and climbing equipment and techniques that are suitable for granite are often less effective (and therefore less safe) on sandstone. Backcountry permits, available at visitor centers, are required for overnight climbs and cost $10 for 1 or 2 people, $15 for 3 to 7, and $20 for 8 to 12. Because some routes may be closed at times, such as during peregrine falcon nesting from early spring through July, climbers should check at the Zion Canyon Visitor Center before setting out. Zion Adventure Company and Zion Rock & Mountain Guides (see "Day Hikes," above) offer a variety of guided rock-climbing and hiking trips, as well as instruction.
Wildlife Viewing & Bird-Watching. It's a rare visitor to Zion who doesn't spot a critter of some sort, from mule deer— often seen along roadways and in campgrounds year-round—to the many varieties of lizards that you're likely to see from spring through fall. The park's largest lizard, the chuckwalla, can grow to 20 inches. The ringtail cat, a relative of the raccoon, prowls Zion Canyon at night and is not above helping itself to your camping supplies. Along the Virgin River you'll see bank beaver, so named because they live in burrows instead of dams. The park is also home to coyotes, black-tailed jackrabbits, cottontails, chipmunks, several types of squirrels, voles, skunks, porcupines, gophers, and a variety of bats.
The rare peregrine falcon, among the world's fastest birds, sometimes nests in the Weeping Rock area, where you're also likely to see birds such as the American dipper, the canyon wren, and the white-throated swift. Bald eagles sometimes winter in the park, and you might also see golden eagles. Snakes include the poisonous Great Basin rattlesnake, usually found only below 8,000 feet elevation, as well as nonpoisonous king snakes and gopher snakes. Tarantulas are often seen in the late summer and fall.
Camping
INSIDE THE PARK
The best places to camp are the national park campgrounds, just inside the park's south entrance. Reservations for Watchman Campground can be made from
mid-March through October (☎ 800/ 365-2267; http://reservations.nps.gov). At this writing there is no booking fee, just the regular campsite fee. Reservations are not accepted for South Campground, and it often fills by noon in the summer, so get there early in the day to claim a site.
Both of Zion's main campgrounds have paved roads, well-spaced sites, lots of trees, flush toilets, and that national park atmosphere you came here to enjoy. Lava Point, on the Kolob Terrace, is more primitive (vault toilets) but has a delightful