Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [49]
NORTH RIM TRAILS
Chasm View Nature Trail
.3 mile RT. Moderate. Access: End of North Rim Campground loop.
Starting in a pinyon-juniper forest, this trail heads to the rim for good views of the canyon and the river; you'll also have a good chance of seeing swallows, swifts, and raptors.
Deadhorse Trail
5 miles RT. Easy to moderate. Access: Kneeling Camel Overlook.
Actually an old service road, this trail offers a good chance of seeing various birds, plus views of Deadhorse Gulch and the East Portal area at the southeast end of the park.
North Vista Trail
7 miles RT. Moderate to strenuous. Access: North Rim Ranger Station.
Offering some of the best scenic views in the Black Canyon, this trail also provides hikers with a good chance of seeing red-tailed hawks, white-throated swifts, Clark's nutcrackers, and ravens. You might also be lucky enough to spot a peregrine falcon. The trail goes through a pinyon-juniper forest along the canyon's rim about 1.5 miles to Exclamation Point, which offers an excellent view into the canyon. Up to this point the trail is rated moderate, but it continues another 2 miles (rated strenuous) to Green Mountain, where you'll find broad, panoramic vistas.
Exploring the Backcountry
Experienced hikers in excellent physical condition may want to hike down into the canyon. Although the canyon has no maintained or marked trails, rangers can help you plot out several recommended routes. Free permits are required. A limited number of campsites are available for backpackers.
The most popular inner canyon hike is the strenuous Gunnison Route, which branches off the South Rim's Oak Flat Loop Trail (see above) and meanders down the side of the canyon to the river. Eighty feet of chain help keep you from falling on a stretch about a third of the way down. This hike has a vertical drop of 1,800 feet and takes about 4 hours.
Other Summer Sports & Activities
Biking. Although bikes are not permitted on any park trails, this is still a popular destination for bikers, who travel the South Rim Road to the various overlooks and trailheads. There are also plenty of mountain biking opportunities outside the park. You can obtain maps, information, bike repairs, and accessories in Montrose at Cascade Bicycles, 25 N. Cascade Ave. (☎ 970/249-7375), and Grand Mesa Cyclery, 223 N. First St. (☎ 970/249-7515).
Climbing. The sheer vertical walls and scenic beauty of the Black Canyon make
it an ideal and popular destination for rock climbers, but—we cannot emphasize this too strongly—this is no place for beginners. These cliffs require a great deal of experience and the best equipment. Free permits are required, and prospective climbers should discuss their plans first with park rangers.
Fishing. Dedicated anglers can make their way to the Gunnison River at the bottom of the canyon in a quest for brown and rainbow trout. East Portal Road (open only in summer) provides access to the upstream section of the river from adjacent Curecanti National Recreation Area. The stretch of the Gunnison River within the park has been designated as Gold Medal Waters; only artificial lures are permitted, and other special rules apply (check with park rangers). A Colorado fishing license is required.
Watersports. Mostly, don't do it! Through the park, the Gunnison River is extremely dangerous for both swimmers and rafters (it's considered unraftable). Sections of river west of the park are more suitable; information is available from the Public Lands Center office in Montrose (see "Information," above). The only exception is for experienced kayakers, who find the river an exhilarating challenge. Free permits are required.
Wildlife Viewing. The park is home to a variety of wildlife; you're likely to see chipmunks, ground squirrels, badgers, marmots, and mule deer. Although not frequently spotted, there are also black bear, cougars, and bobcats,