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Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [60]

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in Jewel Cave, the Conns logged 708 trips into the cave and 6,000 hours of exploration and mapping. Their efforts proved that Jewel Cave was among the most extensive and complex cave ecosystems in the world, filled with scenic and scientific wonders.

The explorers discovered chambers with exquisite calcite crystals and other rare specimens. One area mapped by the Conns, the Formation Room, is now a highlight of the Park Service tours. They also found rooms as large as 150 feet by 200 feet, passageways as long as 3,200 feet, and a place where the cave wind blows at speeds of 32 mph. In 1980, after discovering more than 65 miles of passageways, the Conns retired, and a new generation of spelunkers have pushed the known boundaries of the cave to well over 125 miles.

When the Conns said, "We are still just standing on the threshold," they could not have known how accurate they were. Studies by the U.S. Geological Survey have attempted to determine the amount of passageways in the cave by measuring the volume of air leaving or entering the cave, depending on the barometric pressure outside. Conclusions of those studies indicate that known passageways at Jewel Cave constitute less than 5% of what actually exists in the quiet darkness below the Black Hills.

Only Mammoth Cave in Kentucky and Optimisticeskaja in the Ukraine are longer than Jewel Cave. Explorations of Jewel Cave in 1997 moved the cave from fourth to third longest, surpassing Holloch Cave in Switzerland.

Known for its calcite nailhead and dogtooth spar crystal, Jewel Cave is home to a variety of rare and unusual cave formations. The Cave's hydromagnesite "balloons," fragile silvery bubbles that look as if they might pop any minute, have been found in just a handful of other caves. Scintillites, reddish rocks coated with sparkling clear quartz crystals, were unknown until they were discovered in Jewel Cave. One particularly intriguing mineral, gypsum, combines with time and the ceaseless presence of seeping water to assume the shapes of flowers, needles, spiders, and cottony beards that sway from the heat of an explorer's lamp.

Avoiding the Crowds. The highest visitation at Jewel Cave occurs in June, July, and August. With 1,274 acres above the surface and annual visitation of approximately 140,000, Jewel Cave is rarely overcrowded, even at the height of the tourist season. However, because space on some scenic tours is limited and more than 90,000 park visitors participate in a cave tour annually, visitors should anticipate a wait before entering the cave. If you want to keep your wait to a minimum, arrive early in the morning or late in the day.

ESSENTIALS

Visitor Center. The visitor center has books and brochures, and park rangers can assist travelers in planning their visit, pointing out special interpretive programs, and answering questions about the park's cultural, historical, and geologic resources. Up-to-date cave information and tour tickets also are available at the visitor center, which is open daily year-round (closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, and Dec 25).

Fees. There is no entry fee for the national monument, but you'll pay for cave tours. The Scenic and Lantern tours cost $8 ($4 for children ages 6–16); the Spelunking tour is $27. Make reservations by calling ☎ 605/673-2288, ext. 0. Golden Age and Golden Access Passport holders pay reduced tour fees.

Special Regulations & Warnings. Low-heeled, rubber-soled shoes are highly recommended because trails can be slippery; some stair-climbing is required on each tour. A jacket, sweater, or sweatshirt will keep you comfortable in the 49°F (9°C) year-round temperature of the cave. Persons with respiratory or heart problems and those who have been recently hospitalized or have a fear of heights or confined spaces should talk with a park ranger before selecting a tour. Damaging or even touching cave formations is prohibited because of the fragile and irreplaceable nature of the formations. Pets and smoking are not allowed in the cave. Cameras are permitted on cave tours, but

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