Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [69]
Human exploration of the Bryce area likely began with the Paiutes. It's possible that trappers, prospectors, and early Mormon scouts visited in the early to mid-1800s, before Maj. John Wesley
Powell conducted the first thorough survey of the region in the early 1870s. Shortly after Powell's exploration, Mormon pioneer Ebenezer Bryce and his wife, Mary, moved to the area and tried raising cattle. Although they stayed only a few years, Bryce left behind his name and his oft-quoted description of the canyon as "a helluva place to lose a cow."
Avoiding the Crowds. Although Bryce Canyon receives only two-thirds the number of annual visitors that pour into nearby Zion National Park, Bryce can still be crowded, especially during its peak season, from mid-June to mid-September. If you must visit then, try to hike some of the lesser-used trails (ask rangers for recommendations), and get out onto the trails as soon after sunrise as possible.
A better time to visit, if your schedule allows, is spring or fall. If you don't mind a bit of cold and snow, the park is practically deserted in the winter—a typical January sees some 22,000 to 25,000 visitors, less than a tenth of the number in August—and the sight of bright red hoodoos capped with fresh white snow is something you won't soon forget.
Just the Facts
GETTING THERE & GATEWAYS
Utah 12 crosses the park, which is situated in the mountains of southern Utah, from east to west. The bulk of the park, including the visitor center, is accessible from Utah 63, which turns south off Utah 12. West of the park, U.S. 89 runs north to south. Utah 12 heads east to Tropic and eventually Escalante.
From Salt Lake City, it's about 250 miles to the park. Take I-15 south about 200 miles to Exit 95, head east 13 miles on Utah 20, south on U.S. 89 for 17 miles to Utah 12, and east 17 miles to the park entrance road. The entrance station and visitor center are 3 miles south of Utah 12.
From St. George, about 135 miles southwest of the park, travel north on I-15 10 miles to Exit 16, then head east on Utah 9 for 63 miles to U.S. 89, north 44 miles to Utah 12, and east 17 miles to the park entrance road.
From Cedar City (I-15 exits 57, 59, and 62), about 80 miles west of the park, take Utah 14 southeast 41 miles to its intersection with U.S. 89 and follow that north 21 miles to Utah 12, then east 17 miles to the park entrance road.
A couple of other handy driving distances: Bryce is 83 miles east of Zion National Park, 160 miles north of the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, and 245 miles northeast of Las Vegas, Nevada.
The Nearest Airport. Bryce Canyon Airport (☎ 435/834-5239; www.brycecanyon country.com/county/airport.html), at a 7,586-foot elevation, is several miles from the park entrance on Utah 12 and has a 7,400-foot lighted runway. Charter service is available from Bryce Canyon Airlines (☎ 435/834-5341). Car rentals are available from Hertz (☎ 800/654-3131).
You can also fly to St. George or Cedar City and rent a car.
INFORMATION
Contact Bryce Canyon National Park, P.O. Box 170001, Bryce Canyon, UT 84717 (☎ 435/834-5322; www.nps.gov/ brca). It's best to write at least a month before your planned visit. Ask for a copy of the national park newspaper, Hoodoo, which contains a map of the park, plus information on hiking, weather, ranger-conducted activities, and current issues.
If you desire even more details to help plan your trip, you can order books, maps, posters, DVDs, and videos (in VHS and PAL formats) from the nonprofit Bryce Canyon Natural History Association, Box 170002, Bryce Canyon, UT 84717 (☎ 888/362-2642 or 435/834-4600; fax 435/834-4102; www.brycecanyon.org). The association does not offer memberships but does give a discount to current members of other national park natural history associations.
For additional information on area lodging, dining, and activities, contact Bryce Canyon Country