Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [71]
Exploring the Park by Car
The park's 18-mile (one-way) scenic drive follows the rim of Bryce Canyon, offering easy access to a variety of views into the fanciful fairyland of stone sculptures below. Trailers are not allowed on the road and must be left at one of several parking lots. Because all overlooks are on your left as you begin the drive, it's best to avoid crossing traffic by driving all the way to the end of the road and stopping at the overlooks on your return. Allow 1 to 2 hours.
After leaving the visitor center, drive the length of the 18-mile road to Yovimpa and Rainbow Point overlooks, which offer expansive views of southern Utah, Arizona, and sometimes even New Mexico. From these pink cliffs, you can look down on a colorful platoon of stone soldiers, standing at eternal attention. A short loop trail from Rainbow Point leads to an 1,800-year-old bristlecone pine, believed to be the oldest living thing at Bryce Canyon.
From here, drive north to Ponderosa Canyon Overlook, where you can gaze down from a dense forest of spruce and fir at multicolored hoodoos, and then continue to Agua Canyon Overlook, with some of the best color contrasts in the park. Looking almost straight down, watch for a hoodoo known as The Hunter, with a hat of green trees.
Now continue on to Natural Bridge, actually an arch carved by rain and wind, spanning 85 feet. From here, continue to Farview Point, with a panoramic view to the distant horizon and the Kaibab Plateau at the Grand Canyon's North Rim. Next, pass through Swamp Canyon and continue until you hit a turnoff from the main road on the right.
This turnoff leads to three overlooks. The first is Paria View, looking off to the south of the White Cliffs, carved into light-colored sandstone by the Paria River. To the north of Paria View, you'll find Bryce Point, a splendid stop for seeing the awesome Bryce Amphitheater, the largest natural amphitheater in the park, as well as distant views of the Black Mountains to the northeast and Navajo Mountain to the south. From here it's just a short drive to Inspiration Point, which offers views similar to those at Bryce Point plus the best view in the park of the Silent City, a sleeping metropolis of stone.
Now return to the main road and head north to Sunset Point, where you can see practically all of Bryce Amphitheater, including the aptly named Thor's Hammer and the 200-foot-tall cliffs of Wall Street.
Continue north to a turnoff for your final stop, Sunrise Point, where there's an inspiring view into Bryce Amphitheater. This is the beginning of the Queen's Garden Trail, an excellent choice for a walk (even a quick one) below the canyon rim.
Seeing the Park by Shuttle
To relieve congestion on the park's only road, a shuttle service operates from mid- to late May through early September. It runs every 10 to 15 minutes daily from 9am and 6pm. Visitors can leave their cars at the parking and boarding area at the intersection of the entrance road and Utah 12, 3 miles from the park boundary. Those staying in the park at Bryce Canyon Lodge or one of the campgrounds can also use the shuttle at no additional charge (see "Fees & Permits," earlier in this chapter). The shuttle stops at various viewpoints as well as Ruby's Inn, Ruby's Campground, the visitor center, Sunset Campground, and Bryce Canyon Lodge.
Organized Tours & Ranger Programs
Park rangers present a variety of free programs and activities. Evening programs, which may include a slide show, take place most nights at campground