Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [84]
The Needles District, in the park's southeast corner, has only a few view points along the paved road, but it offers numerous possibilities for hikers, backpackers, and those with high-clearance 4WD. Named for its tall, red-and-white-striped rock pinnacles, this diverse district is home to impressive arches, including the 150-foot-tall Angel Arch, as well as grassy meadows and the confluence of the Green and Colorado rivers. Backcountry visitors to the Needles District will also find ruins and rock art left by American Indians some 800 years ago.
Most park visitors don't get a close-up view of the Maze District, which lies on the west side of the Green and Colorado rivers, but instead see it off in the distance from Grand View Point at Island in the Sky, or Confluence Overlook in the Needles District. That's because it's inhospitable and practically inaccessible. You'll need a lot of endurance and at least several days to see even a few of its sites. In 1 day, hardy hikers can visit
Horseshoe Canyon, where they can see the Great Gallery, an 80-foot-long rock art panel.
The park is also accessible by boat, which is how explorer Maj. John Wesley Powell first saw the canyons in 1869, when he made his first trip down the Green to its confluence with the Colorado, and then traveled farther downstream, eventually to the Grand Canyon. River access is from the towns of Moab and Green River; local companies offer boat trips of various durations.
You'll find a fascinating mixture of mountain and desert animals in Canyonlands; it varies depending on the time of year and your location. The best times to see most wildlife are early and late in the day, especially in the summer when the midday sun drives all Canyonlands residents to search for shade.
Throughout the park you'll probably hear, if not see, coyotes, and you'll likely spot white-tailed antelope squirrels and other rodents scampering among the rocks. Watch for the elusive and rather antisocial bighorn sheep along isolated cliffs, where you might also see a golden eagle or a turkey vulture soaring above the rocks in search of prey. In the little pools of water that appear in the slickrock after rainstorms, you're likely to see tadpole shrimp—1-inch-long crustaceans that look as though they would be more at home in the ocean. Among the cottonwoods and willows along the rivers you'll find a variety of wildlife: deer, beaver, an occasional bobcat, and various migratory birds.
Avoiding the Crowds. Although Canyonlands does not get nearly as crowded as
most other national parks, the more popular trails can be busy at certain times. Spring and fall see the most visitors, but summer has recently become popular, despite scorching temperatures. Those who seriously want to avoid humanity should visit from November through mid-March, when the park is practically deserted, though some trails and 4WD roads may be inaccessible. College spring-break time (usually mid-Mar through Apr) can be especially busy, and any other school vacation usually brings more visitors as well. Hiking in the early morning—often the best time to hike anyway—is a good way to beat the crowds any time of year.
One thing that makes the backcountry experience here especially pleasant, even during the park's busiest times, is that the number of permits for overnight trips is limited (and permits often sell out well in advance). If you're willing to hike, bike, or drive far enough, you're guaranteed that you won't be sharing the trail or road with a lot of other people.
Just the Facts
There are no lodgings, restaurants, or stores