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Frommer's National Parks of the American West - Don Laine [93]

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a selection of activities. There are trails for hiking; roads for mountain biking and four-wheel-drive touring; lush fruit orchards; rich, green cottonwood groves and desert wildflowers; an abundance of songbirds; and a surprising amount of wildlife, from lizards and snakes to the bashful ring-tailed cat (which isn't a cat at all, but a member of the raccoon family). You'll also find thousand-year-old petroglyphs left behind by the ancient Fremont and ancestral Puebloan peoples, and other traces of the past left more recently by

the Utes and Southern Paiutes. This was both a favorite hideout for Wild West outlaws and a home for industrious Mormon pioneers, who planted orchards while their children learned the three R's and studied the Bible and the Book of Mormon in the one-room Fruita Schoolhouse.

The name Capitol Reef conjures up images of a tropical shoreline—an odd choice for a park composed of cliffs and canyons in landlocked Utah. But many of the pioneers who settled the West were former seafaring men, and they extended the traditional meaning of the word reef to include these seemingly impassable rock barriers. They added Capitol to the name because the huge white rounded domes of sandstone reminded them of the domes of capitol buildings.

To be accurate, the park should probably be called the Big Fold. When the earth's crust rose some 60 million years ago, creating the Rocky Mountains, most of the uplifting was relatively even. But here, through one of those fascinating quirks of nature, the crust wrinkled into a huge fold. Extending 100 miles, almost all within the national park, it's known as the Waterpocket Fold.

Avoiding the Crowds. Although Capitol Reef receives only about 550,000 visitors annually, it can still be busy, especially during its peak season, which lasts from April through September. For this reason, the best time to visit is fall, particularly in October and November, when temperatures are usually warm enough for comfortable hiking and camping, but not so high as to send you constantly in search of shade. You also don't have to be as worried about flash floods through narrow canyons as you do during the thunderstorm season, July through September.

Just the Facts


GETTING THERE & GATEWAYS

The park is about 121 miles northeast of Bryce Canyon National Park, 204 miles northeast of Zion National Park, 224 miles south of Salt Lake City, and 366 miles northeast of Las Vegas, Nevada.

It straddles Utah 24, which connects with I-70 to both the northeast and the northwest. Coming from the east along I-70, take Exit 147 and follow Utah 24 southwest to the park. Traveling from the west along I-70, there are two options: Take Exit 48 for Sigurd and follow Utah 24 east to the park; or take Exit 85 for Fremont Junction, then Utah 72 south to Loa, where you pick up Utah 24 east to the park.

Those coming from Bryce Canyon National Park can follow Utah 12 northeast to its intersection with Utah 24 at the small town of Torrey, and turn right (east) to Capitol Reef. If you're approaching the park from Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, take Utah 276 (from Bullfrog Basin Marina) or Utah 95 (from Hite Crossing) north to the intersection with Utah 24, and follow that west to the park.

The Nearest Airport. The closest major airport is Walker Field, about 200 miles east in Grand Junction, Colorado (☎ 970/244-9100; fax 970/241-9103; www.walkerfield.com). It has direct flights or connections from most major cities on America West Express, Delta/ Skywest, Frontier, Great Lakes, and United Express.

Renting a Car. Car rentals are available at the Grand Junction airport or nearby from Alamo, Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Hertz, National, and Thrifty. Toll-free reservations numbers appear in the appendix (p. 661).

INFORMATION

Contact Capitol Reef National Park, HC 70 Box 15, Torrey, UT 84775 (☎ 435/ 425-3791, ext. 111; www.nps.gov/care). Books and maps are available from the nonprofit Capitol Reef Natural History Association, Capitol Reef National Park, HC 70, Box 15,

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