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Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [112]

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restaurant in the city; lavishly carved teak interiors evoke the ambience of a Thai temple. To start, I suggest ordering the tom yam gong soup of lemon grass, shrimp, mushroom, tomato, and cilantro. Follow with such well-flavored dishes as ground pork with fresh ginger, green onion, peanuts, and lemon juice; prawns with hot chilies, mint leaves, lime juice, lemon grass, and onions; or chicken with cashews, crispy chilies, and onions. For a real treat, have the deep-fried pompano topped with sautéed ginger, onions, peppers, pickled garlic, and yellow-bean sauce or deep-fried red snapper with “three-flavors” sauce and basil leaves. A complete dinner, including appetizer, soup, salad, two main courses, dessert, and coffee, is a great value.

5937 Geary Blvd. (btw. 23rd and 24th aves.). 415/668-6654. Reservations recommended Fri–Sat for parties of 3 or more. Main courses $6–$13; fixed-price dinner $20. AE, MC, V. Daily 5–10pm. Bus: 38.

Outerlands ★★ CALIFORNIAN It’s perhaps only a tad of an exaggeration to say that Outerlands could be the place that makes the Outer Sunset District (once a culinary wasteland) a destination dining neighborhood. Located deep in the fog belt, the tiny wooden outpost instantly hooks you with the smell of fresh baking bread and simmering soups. The decor—salvaged graying fence and barn wood that’s been converted into arty sculptures, tables, walls, and chairs—feels at once homey and retro stylish. The menu, composed almost entirely of local, organic, and sustainable ingredients, is a marvel of home-cooked simplicity, with such comforting offerings as galette of fried egg, cipollini onions, gypsy peppers, pancetta, and manchego cheese, and cauliflower soup with truffle oil toast. Dinner is lovely, but brunch is sublime: Dutch pancakes, Moroccan French toast, and “eggs in jail” served with a side of Zoe’s bacon and house-made levain toast.

4001 Judah St. (at 45th Ave.). 415/661-6140. www.outerlandssf.com. No reservations. Main courses $8–$14. MC, V. Tues–Sat 11am–3pm and 6pm–close; Sun 10am–2:30pm and 5–10pm. Streetcar: N Judah.

Inexpensive

Burma Superstar ★★ BURMESE Despite its gratuitous name, this basic dining room garners two-star status by offering exceptional Burmese food at rock-bottom prices. Unfortunately, the allure of the tea-leaf salad, Burmese-style curry with potato, and sweet-tangy sesame beef is one of the city’s worst-kept secrets. Add to that a no-reservations policy, and you can count on waiting in line for up to an hour. (FYI, parties of two are seated more quickly than larger groups, and it’s less crowded at lunch.) On the bright side, you can pencil your cellphone number onto the waiting list and browse the Clement Street shops until you receive a call—or else, head 2 blocks east to the sister restaurant, B Star Bar (127 Clement St.; 415/933-9900), which essentially serves the same dishes for the same prices, but in a prettier, more polished setting without nearly the wait.

309 Clement St. (at Fourth Ave.). 415/387-2147. www.burmasuperstar.com. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $8–$16. MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–3:30pm; Mon–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–10:30pm. Bus: 2, 4, 38, or 44.

Ton Kiang ★★ CHINESE/DIM SUM Ton Kiang is probably the number-one place in the city to have dim sum (served daily), only partially due to the fact that they make all their sauces, pickles, and other delicacies in-house. The experience goes like this: Wait in line (which is out the door 11am–1:30pm on weekends), get a table on the first or second floor, and get ready to say yes to dozens of delicacies, which are rolled past the table for your approval. From stuffed crab claws, roast Beijing duck, and a gazillion dumpling selections (including scallop and vegetable, shrimp, and beef), to the delicious and hard-to-find doa miu (snow pea sprouts flash-sautéed with garlic and peanut oil) and a mesmerizing mango pudding, every tray of morsels coming from the kitchen is an absolute delight. Though it’s hard to get past the dim sum, which is served all day every day, the full menu of Hakka cuisine is worth

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