Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [149]
As you follow the alley south, on the left side of the street you’ll encounter the:
14 Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Company
Located at 56 Ross Alley, this store is little more than a tiny place where three women sit at a conveyer belt, folding messages into warm cookies as the manager invariably calls out to tourists, beckoning them to buy a big bag of the fortune-telling treats.
You can purchase regular fortunes, unfolded flat cookies without fortunes, or, if you bring your own fortunes, make custom cookies (I often do this when I’m having dinner parties) at around $6 for 50 cookies—a very cheap way to impress your friends! Or, of course, you can just take a peek and move on.
As you exit the alley, cross Washington Street, take a right heading west on Washington, and you’re in front of the:
15 Great China Herb Co.
For centuries, the Chinese have come to shops like this one, at 857 Washington St., which are full of exotic herbs, roots, and other natural substances. They buy what they believe will cure all types of ailments and ensure good health and a long life. Thankfully, unlike owners in many similar area shops, Mr. and Mrs. Ho speak English, so you will not be met with a blank stare when you inquire what exactly is in each box, bag, or jar arranged along dozens of shelves. It is important to note that you should not use Chinese herbs without the guidance of a knowledgeable source such as an herb doctor. They may be natural, but they also can be quite powerful and are potentially harmful if misused.
Take a left upon leaving the store and walk to:
16 Stockton Street
The section of Stockton Street between Broadway and Sacramento streets is where most of the residents of Chinatown do their daily shopping.
One noteworthy part of this area’s history is Cameron House (actually up the hill at 920 Sacramento St., near Stockton St.), which was named after Donaldina Cameron (1869–1968). Called Lo Mo, or “the Mother,” by the Chinese, she spent her life trying to free Chinese women who came to America in hopes of marrying well but who found themselves forced into prostitution and slavery. Today, the house still helps women free themselves from domestic violence.
A good stop if you’re in the market for some jewelry is Jade Galore (1000 Stockton St., at Washington St.). Though the employees aren’t exactly warm and fuzzy, they’ve got the goods. In addition to purveying jade jewelry, the store does a fair trade in diamonds.
After browsing at Jade Galore, you might want to wander up Stockton Street to absorb the atmosphere and street life of this less-tourist-oriented Chinese community before doubling back to Washington Street. At 1068 Stockton St. you’ll find AA Bakery & Café, an extremely colorful bakery with Golden Gate Bridge–shaped cakes, bright green and pink snacks, moon cakes, and a flow of Chinese diners catching up over pastries. Another fun place at which to peek is Gourmet Delight B.B.Q., at 1045 Stockton St., where barbecued duck and pork are supplemented by steamed pigs’ feet and chicken feet. Everything’s to go here, so if you grab a snack, don’t forget napkins. Head farther north along the street and you’ll see live fish and fowl awaiting their fate as the day’s dinner.
Meander south on Stockton Street to Clay Street and turn west (right) onto Clay. Continue to 965 Clay St. (Make sure you come Tues–Fri noon–5pm or Sat or Sun noon–4pm.) You’ve arrived at the:
17 Chinese Historical Society of America Museum
Founded in 1963, this museum ( 415/391-1188) has a small but fascinating collection that illuminates the role of Chinese immigrants in American history, particularly in San Francisco and the rest of California.
The interesting artifacts on display include a shrimp-cleaning machine, 19th-century clothing and slippers of the Chinese pioneers, Chinese herbs and scales, historic hand-carved and painted shop signs, and a series of photographs that document the development of Chinese