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is that the Irish coffee was invented at the Buena Vista, but the real story is that this wharf-side cafe was the first bar in the country to serve Irish coffee after a local journalist came back from a trip to Dublin and described the drink to the bartender. Since then, the bar has poured more of these addictive pick-me-up drinks than any other bar in the world, and ordering one has become a San Francisco must-do. Heck, it’s entertaining just to watch the venerable tenders pour up to 10 whiskey-laden coffees at a time (a rather messy event). The cafe is in a prime tourist spot along the wharf, so plan on waiting for a stool or table to free up on weekends. And if you need a snack to soak up the booze, they serve food here as well. 2765 Hyde St. (at Beach St.). 415/474-5044.www.thebuenavista.com.

Edinburgh Castle Since 1958 this legendary Scottish pub has been known for having rare British ales on tap and one of the best selections of single-malt Scotches in the city. The homey pub is festively decorated with a mishmash of across-the-pond mementos, including an authentic Ballantine caber (a long wooden pole) used in the annual Scottish games. Fish and chips (served in newspaper, of course) and other traditional British foods are available until 11pm. The Edinburgh also features author readings and performances and has hosted such noteworthy writers as Po Bronson, Beth Lisick, and Anthony Swofford. Open 5pm to 2am daily. 950 Geary St. (btw. Polk and Larkin sts.). 415/885-4074.www.castlenews.com.

Gold Dust Lounge If you’re staying downtown and want to head to a friendly, festive bar loaded with old-fashioned style and revelry, you needn’t wander far off Union Square. This classically cheesy watering hole is all that. The red banquettes, gilded walls, dramatic chandeliers, pro bartenders, and “regulars” are the old-school real deal. Add live music and cheap drinks and you’re in for a good ol’ time. Tip: It’s cash only, so come with some greenbacks. 247 Powell St. (at Geary St.). 415/397-1695.

Hemlock Tavern This former gay dance club is now one of the most popular bars on Polk Street and always packed on weekends. There’s lots of dark wood, warm colors, a line for the bathroom, and an enclosed back room that’s dedicated just to smokers. The crowd is a bit younger than the Edinburgh Castle crew, but there’s a similar mix of locals, hipsters, musicians, and visitors who would never think of themselves as tourists. The jukebox is sweet, and you can chow down on warm peanuts (toss the shells on the floor) and wash ’em down with a good selection of beers on tap. 1131 Polk St. (at Sutter St.). 415/923-0923.www.hemlocktavern.com. No cover.

Li Po Cocktail Lounge A dim, divey, and slightly spooky Chinese bar that was once an opium den, Li Po’s alluring character stems from its mishmash clutter of dusty Asian furnishings and mementos, including an unbelievably huge ancient rice-paper lantern hanging from the ceiling and a glittery golden shrine to Buddha behind the bar. The bartenders, who pour a mean Li Po Special Mai Tai, love to creep out patrons with tales of opium junkies haunting the joint. Bands and DJs occasionally whip up a sweaty dance scene in the basement, but it’s a hit-or-miss schedule. 916 Grant Ave. (btw. Washington and Jackson sts.). 415/982-0072.

Martuni’s San Francisco has plenty of bars with pianos in them, but for the real singalong piano bar experience you’ll want to head to Martuni’s. After a couple of stiff martinis you’ll loosen up enough to join the eclectic crowd in rousing renditions of everything from Cole Porter to Elton John. If you’re not up for singing, you can cuddle with your date in the dark alcoves and watch the fun; otherwise, saddle up to the piano and let ’er rip. 4 Valencia St. (at Market St.). 415/241-0205.

Matrix Fillmore The Matrix represents the best and worst of the Marina/Cow Hollow young-’n-yuppie scene: It attracts some of the city’s top eye candy, but also has L.A.-style attitude in abundance. (I was once asked to give up my fireplace love seat to someone more important.) Dress