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pleasing, is quite simple—communal-style wood banquettes, high loftlike ceilings, various picture collages of plums on the wall—as is the menu, at least in length. But simple doesn’t have to translate to boring. The brainchild of Daniel Patterson, Plum’s menu is broken up into four categories: Snacks, To Start, Vegetables and Grains, and Animal. Within each category, there are only four dishes, many of which are vegetable heavy. While the menu changes regularly, expect to see similar offerings to artichoke terrine, beet boudin noir, and turnip apple soup as smaller starters. The beef cheek and oxtail burger; slow-cooked farm egg with fried farro, chicken, and sprouts; and Manila clams are popular orders for the main event. Desserts, served in mason jars, are not only artfully presented but even more delicious than they look. For example, panna cotta was never my favorite—until I discovered Plum, which serves it at the perfect consistency with a glaze of quince compote and thyme on top.

2214 Broadway (at Grand Ave.). 510/444-7586. www.plumoakland.com. Reservations recommended. Small plates $4–$13; main courses $12–$18. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–2pm; Mon–Fri 5pm–1am.

MODERATE

A Côté ★★ FRENCH TAPAS Jack and Daphne Knowles look to chef Matthew Colgan to serve up superb rustic Mediterranean-inspired small plates at this loud, festive, and warmly lit joint. A “limited reservations” policy means there’s usually a long wait during prime dining hours, but once seated, you can join locals in a nosh fest featuring the likes of croque-monsieur, pommes frites with aioli, wood-oven cooked mussels in Pernod, grilled pork tenderloin with creamy polenta and pancetta, and cheese plates—and wash it down with Belgian ales, perky cocktails, or excellent by-the-glass or -bottle selections from the great wine list. Note: The heated and covered outdoor seating area tends to be quieter.

5478 College Ave. (at Taft Ave.). 510/655-6469. www.acoterestaurant.com. Limited reservations accepted. Small plates $8–$16. MC, V. Sun–Tues 5:30–10pm; Wed–Thurs 5:30–11pm; Fri–Sat 5:30pm–midnight.

BayWolf ★ CALIFORNIAN The life span of most Bay Area restaurants is about a year; BayWolf, one of Oakland’s most revered restaurants, has, fittingly, been going strong for over 3 decades. The converted brown Victorian is a comfortably familiar sight for most East Bay diners, who have come here for years to let executive chef and owner Michael Wild do the cooking. BayWolf enjoys a reputation for simple yet sagacious preparations using only fresh ingredients. Main courses include Liberty Ranch duck three ways (grilled breast, braised leg, and crépinette) with turnips, curly endive, apples, and Calvados; flavorful seafood stew seasoned with saffron; and tender braised osso buco with creamy polenta and gremolata. Informal service means you can leave the tie at home. The front deck has heat lamps and a radiant heat floor, allowing for open-air evening dining year-round—a treat that San Franciscans rarely experience.

3853 Piedmont Ave. (off Broadway btw. 40th St. and MacArthur Blvd.). 510/655-6004. www.baywolf.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $8–$18 lunch, $10–$26 dinner. AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2pm; Tues–Sun 5:30–9:30pm. Paid parking at Piedmont Ave. and Yosemite St.

ANGEL ISLAND & TIBURON

8 miles N of San Francisco

A California State Park, Angel Island is the largest of San Francisco Bay’s three islets (the others are Alcatraz and Yerba Buena). The island has been, at various times, a prison, a quarantine station for immigrants, a missile base, and even a favorite site for duels. Nowadays, most visitors are content with picnicking on the large green lawn that fronts the docking area; loaded with the appropriate recreational supplies, they claim a barbecue pit, plop their fannies down on the lush, green grass, and while away an afternoon free of phones, televisions, and traffic. Hiking, mountain biking, and guided tram tours are other popular activities here.

Tiburon, situated on a peninsula of the same name, looks like a cross between a fishing