Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [204]
10 Pacific Way (Hwy. 1), Muir Beach, CA 94965. www.pelicaninn.com. 415/383-6000. 7 units. $190–$280 double. Rates include a full English breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant.
Where to Eat
The Tavern at Lark Creek ★★ AMERICAN It used to be the pricey Lark Creek Inn; now it’s a neighborhood pub where you can grab a bite—and a damn tasty one, at that—for under $15. Housed in a stately Victorian, the interior is warm and inviting, with soaring sky-lit ceilings and ample dining space—much cozier, more convivial, and less snobby than its former state. The menu has a nice mixture of comfort fare like shrimp and grits or mac and cheese croquettes (tempura-battered), as well as heartier gastro-pub eats like short ribs and wood-oven-baked, lamb-sausage moussaka. The restaurant even offers ongoing vegan options, such as quinoa-and-red-potato cakes or pumpkin risotto, and a build-your-own prix-fixe menu for $30.
234 Magnolia Ave., Larkspur. 415/924-7766. www.tavernatlarkcreek.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $8.95–$19. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5:30–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 5–10pm; Sun 10am–2pm and 5–9:30pm. Free valet parking.
11
THE WINE COUNTRY
by Erika Lenkert
Pinot noir grapes from Carneros vineyards.
Anyone with a penchant for the good life and a day or more to spare on their San Francisco itinerary should beeline directly to the Wine Country, an hour or so north by car. Amid mountains dipping into grapevine-trellised valleys, you’ll experience an entirely different Northern California: fresh country air, mustard-flower-draped hillsides in spring, gloriously hot weather during summer and fall, romantically chilly and wet days during winter, and nothing to do but indulge all year round—be it in the tasting rooms of some of the world’s finest wineries, around the tables at the region’s legendary restaurants, or within the resorts and spas tucked within the valleys and mountains. Even the rotten economy can’t spoil the fun to be found in this Disneyland for grown-ups. In fact, while at least one veteran restaurant recently closed (Martini House in St. Helena), two major landmarks opened in the second half of 2010 (famed Iron Chef Morimoto’s namesake restaurant and TV chef Tyler Florence’s new spot Rotisserie & Wine, both located in downtown Napa). If anything, the economic downturn has made a table at previously inaccessible restaurants easier to come by and proprietors that much more eager to make your experience truly memorable.
To help you decide which of the Wine Country’s two distinct valleys (Napa and Sonoma) you prefer to visit, consider their differences: The most obvious is size—Napa Valley dwarfs Sonoma Valley in population, number of wineries, and sheer volume of tourism (and traffic). Napa is definitely the more commercial of the two, with many more wineries and spas to choose from (including more formal tours and seminars for those who want to learn about the world of winemaking), and a superior selection of restaurants, hotels, and quintessential Wine Country activities, like hot-air ballooning, wine tasting, and shopping. Meanwhile, Sonoma Valley is paradise for those who are in the less-is-more camp. Napa Valley’s neighbor has fewer wineries (about 45), fewer big hotels and restaurants, and a less commercial feel. As a result, there are fewer crowds on the low-key country roads; more down-home charm in the country communities, B&Bs, and little family-run restaurants; and, in general, more opportunities for intimate pastoral experiences. For more on Sonoma Valley’s offerings (as spectacular as Napa Valley’s but more low-key), see the “Sonoma Valley” section, later in this chapter.
If you’re planning a more extensive trip to the area, consult Frommer’s Portable California Wine Country (Wiley Publishing, Inc.).
NAPA