Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [206]
NAPA ★
55 miles N of San Francisco
The city of Napa serves as the commercial center of the Wine Country and the gateway to Napa Valley—hence the high-speed freeway that whips you right past it and on to the “tourist” towns of St. Helena and Calistoga. However, if you veer off the highway, you’ll be surprised to discover a small but burgeoning community of nearly 75,000 residents with the most “cosmopolitan” atmosphere in the county (though I use that term loosely)—and some of the most affordable accommodations in the valley (Calistoga also has good deals). Still in the process of gentrification for the past decade, and deeply affected by the economic downturn, it continues to welcome new, and surprisingly fancy hotels, condos, and restaurants (as I mentioned previously, Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto and TV celebrity chef Tyler Florence opened restaurants here in late 2010), while the city center’s small storefront spaces remain glaringly abandoned. Heading north on either Hwy. 29 or the Silverado Trail leads you to Napa’s wineries and the more quintessential Wine Country atmosphere of vineyards and wide-open country views.
Napa Valley Traffic
Travel the Silverado Trail as often as possible to avoid California Hwy. 29’s traffic. It runs parallel to and about 2 miles east of Hwy. 29. You get there from the city of Napa or by taking any of the “crossroads” from Hwy. 29. Crossroads are not well signposted, but they’re clearly defined on most maps. If you take the Trail, keep us locals happy by driving at least the speed limit. Slow rubberneckers are no fun to follow when you’re trying to get from one end of the valley to the other. Also, avoid passing through Main Street in St. Helena (on Hwy. 29) during high season. While a wintertime ride from Napa to Calistoga can take 30 minutes, in summer you can expect the trek to take closer to 50 minutes.
Artesa Vineyards & Winery ★★ Views, modern architecture, seclusion, and region-specific pinot noir flights are the reasons this is one of my favorite stops. Arrive on a day when the wind is blowing less than 10 mph, and the fountains are captivating; they automatically shut off with higher winds. Step into the winery, and there’s plenty to do. You can wander through the very tasteful gift shop, browse a room that outlines history and details of the Carneros region, or head to the long bar for $10 to $15 flights of everything from chardonnays and pinot noirs to cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Sorry, but Artesa’s permits don’t allow for picnicking.
1345 Henry Rd., Napa. 707/224-1668. www.artesawinery.com. Daily 10am–5pm; tours daily at 11am and 2pm. From Hwy. 12/121, turn north on old Sonoma Rd., turn left on Dealy Lane which becomes Henry Rd.
A sculpture at Artesa.
Darioush Winery ★ With architecture based on Persepolis, the capital city of ancient Persia, this 22,000-square-foot winery features the dazzling 16 monumental 18-foot-tall free-standing columns at the entrance, a state-of-the-art visitor center, and opulent landscaping—all in honor of Persian-American owner Darioush Khaledi’s homeland. (He immigrated during the Islamic Revolution and found his fortune in a grocery chain.) Tastings ($25) include their well-regarded merlot, cabernet sauvignon, viognier, and chardonnay, as well as addictive Persian pistachios. Opt for the appointment-only $50 private tasting with cheese pairing and you’ll get to savor local Sonoma artisan cheeses with your wine and tour the facilities. Throw down $150 and you’re privy to an elaborate wine and food pairing featuring limited release wines.
4240 Silverado Trail (south of Oak Knoll Ave.), Napa. 707/257-2345. www.darioush.com. Daily 10:30am–5pm. Private tasting with cheese pairing daily at 2pm and by appointment. Tours available by appointment.
The Hess Collection ★★ Tucked into the hillside of rural Mount Veeder,