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Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [219]

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gamut—from standard motels and floral-and-lace Victorian-style B&Bs to world-class luxury retreats—and all are easily accessible from the main highway that stretches across the valley and leads to its attractions. Most of the romantically pastoral options (think hidden hillside spots with vineyard views or quaint small-town charmers) are found on the outskirts of historic St. Helena, which have the best walking/shopping street, and the equally storied but more laid-back and affordable hot-springs-heavy Calistoga, which also boasts some of the region’s most affordable options. The few commercial blocks of pastoral Yountville have become a destination in itself thanks to a number of famous restaurants (including world-renowned French Laundry) as well as a handful of high-end hotels and middle-end B&Bs. The most “reasonably priced” (a relative term in this high-priced area) choices are the B&Bs, small hotels, and national chain options in downtown Napa, the closest thing you’ll find to a city in these parts. Fortunately, the workaday town continues to add more reasons to visit, including impressive restaurants (Hello, Morimoto—home to Iron Chef Morimoto’s high-end Japanese cuisine). No matter where you stay, you’re just a few minutes—or less—away from world-class wineries.

WHAT YOU’LL REALLY PAY


The prices associated with a stay in Wine Country can be jaw-dropping. Here, luxury abodes can set you back close to $1,000 per night. But more startling, even a standard motel room can go for upward of $250 per night over the weekend during high season. Why? Because there tend to be more people who want to visit than there are hotels to accommodate them. In other words, it’s a seller’s market. So, if budget travel is essential to your itinerary, definitely avoid visiting during high season—March to November—when most hotels charge peak rates, sell out completely on weekends, and often have a 2-night minimum. That said, there are still deals to be had, so when you browse the rates listed here, which are “rack rates” or the maximum possible charge per night, keep in mind that you may be able to book a room for substantially cheaper; it’s always worth asking. If you need help organizing your Wine Country vacation, contact an agency. Bed & Breakfast Inns of Napa Valley ( 707/944-4444; www.bbinv.com), an association of B&Bs, provides descriptions and lets you know who has rooms available. Napa Valley Reservations Unlimited ( 800/251-6272 or 707/252-1985; www.napavalleyreservations.com) is also a source for booking everything from hot-air balloon rides to wine-tasting tours by limousine.

NAPA

While there are a few rural resorts in Napa, most accommodations are in the walkable downtown area, including Embassy Suites, 1075 California Blvd., Napa, CA 94559 (www.napavalley.embassysuites.com; 800/362-2779 or 707/253-9540), which offers 205 two-room suites that include a galley kitchen complete with coffeemaker, fridge, microwave, a wet bar, two TVs and access to indoor and outdoor pools and a restaurant. Rates range from $189 to $390 and include cooked-to-order breakfast, 2-hour beverage reception from 5:30 to 6:30pm, complimentary access to a health club, and free parking. The 272-room Napa Valley Marriott, 3425 Solano Ave., Napa, CA 94558 (www.marriott.com; 800/228-9290 or 707/253-8600), has an exercise room, a heated outdoor pool and spa, and two restaurants; rates range from $99 to $398 for rooms, $350 to $500 for suites.

Best For: Travelers in search of reasonable prices and easy access to the town’s numerous restaurants, the wonderful co-op foodie shopping hall Oxbow Market and farmers’ market.

Drawbacks: The few “rural” options tucked into surrounding hillsides aside, it doesn’t have the romantic pastoral scenery associated with the region.

Moderate

Cedar Gables Inn ★★ This grand, romantic Shakespearean/Renaissance style B&B in Old Town Napa was built in 1892 and boasts rooms that reflect that era with rich tapestries and stunning gilded antiques. Four have fireplaces, five have whirlpool tubs, and all feature queen-size

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