Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [222]
Maison Fleurie.
OAKVILLE & RUTHERFORD
Mere blips on the map, these rural towns don’t have much in the way of commercial spaces, but they do have very revered wineries.
Best For: Luxury lovers who want to experience the divine digs of Auberge du Soleil, or anyone looking to sleep surrounded by vineyards.
Drawbacks: You won’t find much in the way of reasonably priced rooms here.
Very Expensive
Auberge du Soleil ★★★ This spectacular Relais & Châteaux member is one of the most exclusive luxury retreats in all of California. Set high above Napa Valley in a 33-acre olive grove, contemporary California bungalow-like rooms are large enough to get lost in—and you might want to, once you discover all the amenities. In the private living room, oversize, cushy furniture surrounds a wood-burning fireplace; it’s the ideal place to relax and listen to the CD selection or watch one of the room’s two flatscreen TVs. Fresh flowers, original art, wood floors, and a minibar complete with drinks and snacks are the best of luxury home-away-from-home. Each sun-washed private deck has views of the valley that are nothing less than spectacular. All guests have access to a celestial swimming pool, exercise room, and a fabulous spa. Although only guests can use the spa, you can savor Auberge’s romantic grandeur without staying overnight if you have lunch on the terrace of their restaurant overlooking the valley (for more info). Parents take note: This is not a kid-friendly place.
180 Rutherford Hill Rd., Rutherford, CA 94573. www.aubergedusoleil.com. 800/348-5406 or 707/963-1211. Fax 707/963-8764. 50 units. $575–$1,075 double; $1,150–$2,400 suite. Rates include breakfast and daily newspaper. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. From Hwy. 29 in Rutherford, turn right on Calif. 128 and go 3 miles to the Silverado Trail; turn left and head north about 600 ft. to Rutherford Hill Rd.; turn right. Amenities: Restaurant, Auberge du Soleil (see review); bikes; concierge; health club and full-service spa; outdoor Jacuzzi; 3 outdoor pools ranging from hot to cold; room service; sauna; tennis court. In room: A/C, TV/DVD w/HBO, fridge, hair dryer, kitchenette, minibar, MP3 docking station, free Wi-Fi.
Room with a view at the Auberge du Soleil.
Moderate
Rancho Caymus Inn ★ This funky-cozy Spanish-style hacienda with two floors opening onto wisteria-covered balconies and a centerpiece courtyard with an enormous outdoor fireplace, overflows with character. Hardly the cookie-cutter style of newer hotels, this one was the passionate creation of sculptor Mary Tilden Morton (whose dad was a forestry baron; Berkeley’s Tilden Park is named for him). Morton wanted each room in the hacienda to be a work of art, so she employed the most skilled craftspeople she could find. As a result you’ll find Morton-designed adobe fireplaces in 22 of 26 rooms, and artifacts she gathered in Mexico and South America.
The mix-and-match decor is on the funky side, with braided rugs and overly varnished imported carved wood furnishings. But it’s hard to balk when they include wet bars, sitting areas with sofa beds, and small private patios. Most of the suites have fireplaces, one has a kitchenette, and five have whirlpool tubs. Breakfast, which includes fresh fruit, granola, orange juice, and pastries, is served in the inn’s dining room.
1140 Rutherford Rd. (PO Box 78), Rutherford, CA 94573. www.ranchocaymus.com. 800/845-1777 or 707/963-1777. Fax 707/963-5387. 26 suites. $175–$435 double; $215–$410 master suite; $275–$450 2-bedroom suite. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, MC, V. From Hwy. 29 N., turn right onto Rutherford Rd./Calif. 128 east; the hotel is on your left. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, kitchenette in 1 room, minibar, free Wi-Fi.
ST. HELENA
Perfectly situated between the winery-heavy towns of Yountville, Oakville, and Rutherford to the south and Calistoga to the north and rife with famed wine brands of its own, this charming historic town provides easy access to a wide