Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [238]
Ravenswood Winery ★ The first winery in the United States to focus primarily on zinfandel—the versatile red grape known here for being big, ripe, juicy, and powerful—Ravenswood underscores its zest for zin with their motto, “No Wimpy Wines.” While zins make up about three-quarters of their astonishing one-million-case production, they also produce merlot, cabernet sauvignon, Rhone varietals, and a small amount of chardonnay.
The winery is smartly designed—recessed into the hillside to protect its treasures from the simmering summers. Tours ($15 per person) follow the winemaking process from grape to glass and include a visit to the aromatic oak-barrel aging rooms. You’re welcome to bring your own picnic basket to any of the tables, and don’t forget to check their website or call to find out if they’re having one of their famous ongoing barbecues or winter celebrations. Regardless, tastings are $10 for five Sonoma County wines to $15 for the Vineyard Designate series. Bottles average around $35.
18701 Gehricke Rd. (off Lovall Valley Rd.), Sonoma. 888/669-4679 or 707/933-2332. www.ravenswoodwinery.com. Daily 10am–4:30pm. Tours at 10:30am; reservations recommended.
GLEN ELLEN
About 7 miles north of Sonoma on Hwy. 12 is the town of Glen Ellen. Although just a fraction of the size of Sonoma, Glen Ellen is home to several of the valley’s finest wineries, restaurants, and inns. Aside from the addition of a few new restaurants, this charming town hasn’t changed much since the days when Jack London settled on his Beauty Ranch, about a mile west. Other than the wineries, you’ll find few real signs of commercialism; the shops and restaurants, along one main winding lane, cater to a small, local clientele—that is, until the summer tourist season begins and traffic nearly triples on the weekends. If you haven’t decided where you want to set up camp during your visit to the Wine Country, I highly recommend this lovable little rural region.
Arrowood Vineyards & Winery Richard Arrowood had already established a reputation as a master winemaker at Château St. Jean when he and his wife, Alis Demers Arrowood, set out on their own in 1986. Their picturesque winery stands on a gently rising hillside lined with perfectly manicured vineyards. Tastings take place in the Hospitality House, the newer of Arrowood’s two stately gray-and-white buildings. They’re fashioned after New England farmhouses, complete with wraparound porches. Richard’s focus is on making world-class wine with minimal intervention, and his results are impressive: More than one of his recent releases scored over 90 points in Wine Spectator, Wine Advocate, or Wine Enthusiast. Mind you, excellence isn’t free: A taste here is $5 for five Sonoma County wines or $10 for five limited-production wines, while a winery, vineyard, and cellar tour is $25, but if you’re curious about what near-perfection tastes like, it’s well worth it. Note: No picnic facilities are available here.
14347 Sonoma Hwy. (Calif. 12), Glen Ellen. 707/935-2600. www.arrowoodvineyards.com. Daily 10am–4:30pm. Tours by appointment only.
Benziger Family Winery ★ A visit here confirms that this is indeed a family winery. At any given time, two generations of Benzigers (Ben-zigger) may be running around tending to chores, and they instantly make you feel as if you’re part of the clan. The pastoral, user-friendly property features an exceptional self-guided tour of the certified biodynamic winery (“The most comprehensive tour in the wine industry,” according to Wine Spectator), gardens, and a spacious tasting room staffed by amiable folks. Definitely pay the $15 for adults and $5 for kids 20 and under for the 45-minute tram tour, pulled