Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [246]
110 W. Spain St. 707/938-3634. www.thegirlandthefig.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $13–$24. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–10pm; Sun brunch 10am. Late-night brasserie menu until 11pm Fri–Sat.
The girl & the fig.
Harvest Moon ★★ REGIONAL SEASONAL AMERICAN Napa may have better restaurants in general, but the feasts to the east have nothing on this new downtown Sonoma restaurant. Chef/owner Nick Demarest’s experience at Berkeley’s world-famous Chez Panisse is evidenced by his use of outstanding ingredients combined into dishes of clean, pure, and glorious flavors. His chicory salad with mustard vinaigrette, house-cured bacon, and Gruyère is a case-in-point appetizer that’s easily backed up by entrees such as pan-fried local rock cod with Swiss chard, fingerling potatoes, and beurre rouge. Sweetening the already delicious deal, his wife Jen is a pedigreed pastry chef with experience at Napa’s fancy La Toque. The space itself is quirky, which means you can expect great seats at the wine bar and a scattering of tables tucked within a cramped and warm historic adobe room. Inside you’ll see the chef hard at work within the shoebox open kitchen. Outside, weather permitting, is a spacious garden dining area. Regardless, if it’s a good meal you’re after, you will not find a better one this side of the Mayacamas.
487 First St. W. 707/933-8160. www.harvestmooncafesonoma.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $17–$26. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5:30–9pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–9:30pm; Sun brunch 10am–2pm.
Meritage ★ SOUTHERN FRENCH/NORTHERN ITALIAN Chef-owner Carlo Cavallo, formerly executive chef for Giorgio Armani, combines the best of southern French and northern Italian cuisines (hence “Meritage,” after a blend made with traditional bordeaux varieties), giving Sonomans yet another reason to eat out. The menu, which changes twice daily, is a good read: foie gras ravioli with sage truffle sauce; seafood stew with tiger prawns, Manila clams, mussels, and mixed fresh fish in a spicy tomato saffron broth; and wild boar chops in white truffle sauce with mashed potatoes. Shellfish fans can’t help but love the oyster raw bar with options of fresh crab and lobster, and cocktailers revel in the new martini bar. A lovely garden patio is prime positioning for sunny brunches and lunches and summer dinners. Such edible enticement—combined with reasonable prices, excellent service, a stellar wine list, and Carlo’s practiced charm—make Meritage a trustworthy option.
165 W. Napa St. 707/938-9430. www.sonomameritage.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $18–$25; chef tasting menu $60; vegetarian tasting menu $50. AE, MC, V. Mon and Wed–Fri 11:30am–3pm; Mon and Wed–Thurs 5–9pm; Fri–Sat 5–9:30pm; brunch Sat–Sun 10:30am–3pm.
Swiss Hotel ★ CONTINENTAL/NORTHERN ITALIAN With its slanting floors and beamed ceilings, the historic Swiss Hotel, located right in the town center, is very much the local favorite for fine food served at reasonable prices. The turn-of-the-20th-century oak bar at the left of the entrance is adorned with black-and-white photos of pioneering Sonomans. Conversely, the white dining room and sidewalk patio seats are brighter spots to enjoy lunch specials such as penne with chicken, mushrooms, and tomato cream; hot sandwiches; and California-style pizzas fired in a wood-burning oven. But the secret spot is the atmospheric back garden patio, a secluded oasis shaded by a wisteria-covered trellis and adorned with plants, a fountain, gingham tablecloths, and a fireplace. Dinner main courses run the gamut. I like the linguine and prawns with garlic, hot pepper, and tomatoes; the blue cheese–encrusted filet mignon; and roasted rosemary chicken. The food may not knock your socks off, but it’s all simply satisfying.
18 W. Spain St. (at First St. W.). 707/938-2884. www.swisshotelsonoma.com.