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Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [40]

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2, 3, 4, 27, or 38. Cable car: Powell–Market. Pets accepted. Amenities: Restaurant/bar; babysitting by referral; concierge; exercise room; limited room service; sauna; free Wi-Fi in meeting rooms and public spaces. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, hair dryer, minibar, free Wi-Fi.

Sir Francis Drake ★★ This landmark hotel is one of San Francisco’s grand dames, operating continuously since 1928 in the heart of Union Square. The Kimpton Hotel company has done a wonderful job renovating the hotel (which has been sorely needed since I was a kid), giving this elegant lady a much-needed makeover. It’s always a pleasure to have Tom Sweeny, the ebullient (and legendary) Beefeater doorman, handle your bags as you enter the elegant, captivating lobby, with its gilded high ceilings, glittering crystal chandeliers, and massive marble staircase that leads to a mezzanine overlooking bustling Powell Street.

Scala’s Bistro, one of the most festive restaurants downtown, serves good Mediterranean cuisine in a stylish setting on the first floor; the Italian-style Caffe Espresso does an equally commendable job serving coffees, pastries, and sandwiches daily. Harry Denton’s Starlight Room, on the 21st floor, offers cocktails, entertainment, and dancing nightly with a panoramic view of the city.

You can’t miss the Sir Francis Drake hotel’s Tom Sweeney in his $1,400 Beefeater duds. The head doorman has shaken hands with every U.S. president since Jerry Ford.

450 Powell St. (at Sutter St.), San Francisco, CA 94102. www.sirfrancisdrake.com. 800/795-7129 or 415/392-7755. Fax 415/391-8719. 416 units. $183–$303 double; from $5,200 suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $44. Bus: 2, 3, 4, 45, or 76. Cable car: Powell–Hyde or Powell–Mason line (direct stop). Pets welcome. Amenities: 2 restaurants, including Scala’s Bistro (see review); bar; concierge; exercise room; room service. In room: A/C, TV w/movies on demand, hair dryer, minibar, free Wi-Fi.

The Warwick Regis ★★ Louis XVI might have been a rotten monarch, but he certainly had taste. Fashioned in the style of pre-Revolutionary France, the Warwick is awash with French and English antiques, Italian marble, chandeliers, four-poster beds, hand-carved headboards, and the like. The result is an expensive-looking hotel that, for all its pleasantries and perks, is surprisingly affordable when compared to its Union Square contemporaries. Rooms can be on the small side; nonetheless, they’re some of the city’s most charming. Honeymooners should splurge on the fireplace rooms with four-poster beds—ooh la la! Adjoining the lobby is La Scene Restaurant and Bar, a beautiful place to start your day with a latte and end it with a nightcap.

490 Geary St. (btw. Mason and Taylor sts.), San Francisco, CA 94102. www.warwicksf.com. 800/203-3232 or 415/928-7900. Fax 415/441-8788. 74 units. $84–$204 double; from $114 suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking $35. Bus: 2, 3, 4, 27, or 38. Cable car: Powell–Hyde or Powell–Mason line. Amenities: Restaurant; babysitting; concierge; access to nearby health club ($15 per day); room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, free Wi-Fi.

White Swan Inn ★★ From the moment you’re buzzed into this well-secured inn, you’ll know you’re not in a generic bed-and-breakfast. The romantically homey rooms are warm and cozy—the perfect place to snuggle up with a good book. They’re also quite big, with hardwood entryways, rich dark-wood furniture, working fireplaces, and an assortment of books tucked in nooks. The decor is English elegance at its best, if not to excess (floral prints and ceramic bric-a-brac abound). The luxury king suites are not much better than regular rooms, just a wee bit bigger, and feature perks like evening turndown, bathrobes, and a wet bar stocked with complimentary beverages. Each morning, a breakfast buffet is served in a common room just off a tiny garden. Afternoon reception, consisting of hors d’oeuvres, sherry, wine, and home-baked pastries, can be enjoyed in front of the fireplace while you browse through the books in the library or in the parlor.

845 Bush

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