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Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [79]

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and the EPIC Roasthouse and its adjoining sister restaurant, Waterbar (see below), were both built from the ground up on perhaps the most prime piece of real estate in the city, with spectacular, glittering views of the Bay Bridge, Treasure Island, and city skyline. At EPIC, it’s all about steak—you’d be unwise to order anything but. Renowned chef and co-owner Jan Birnbaum, a New Orleans man who knows his meat, runs the show in his huge exhibition kitchen, overseeing the wood-fired hearth to make sure your $84 rib-eye for two is cooked to your specs. The restaurant’s Pat Kuleto–designed interior makes for a grand entrance: Only when you’re done marveling at the bold industrial elements of leather, stone, mahogany, and massive cast iron gears do you notice the phenomenal view of the Bay Bridge from the two-story-tall wall of windows. Perhaps the only thing prettier than the scenery is Birnbaum’s sizzling 26-ounce bone-in porterhouse on your plate (“Every steak comes with a handle,” claims Jan). If you don’t have a reservation, the upstairs Quiver Bar serves both bar and full menus, but the crowd often consists of obnoxious businessmen and Gucci-toting gold-diggers from across the bridge. Tip: On sunny days, beg the hostess for a table on the bay-view patio.

369 Embarcadero (at Harrison St.). 415/369-9955. www.epicroasthousesf.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $19–$42. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Thurs–Fri 11:30am–2pm; Sun–Thurs 5–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 5–10:30pm; brunch Sat–Sun 11am–3pm. Valet parking $12 lunch, $10 dinner. Bus: 1, 12, 14, or 41. Streetcar: F. BART: Embarcadero.

Prospect ★★★ AMERICAN From the genius team behind award-winning Boulevard, Prospect was perhaps San Francisco’s hottest new opening of 2010. And it well lived up to its hype, too. Stop by any night of the week when the work day is drawing to a close, and the spacious building will be packed with businessmen (and women) who drop by Prospect after working hours (and often during, too, as happy hour starts daily at 4pm). Chef Ravi Kapur, who used to head the kitchen at Boulevard, brought his usual enthusiasm and culinary panache over to Prospect with an amalgamation of seafood dishes like black cod or Dungeness crab and wild game like roasted crab to start. Entrees might be a petrale sole with wild rice, asparagus, and caramelized sunchokes or a ranch goat with artichokes, braised butter beans, garlic sauce, and gremolata. More unique items rounding out the menu include crispy pig trotters and beef tongue carpaccio. (Don’t worry: They’re far better than they may sound.) Wine is a subject in which Prospect excels as well, with quite the selection of bottles from around the world and more than a dozen available by the glass.

300 Spear St. (at Folsom St.). 415/247-7770. www.prospectsf.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $25–$43. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5:30–10pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–10:30pm; Sun 11am–2:30pm and 5:30–9:30pm. Bus: 2, 6, 21, or 31. Streetcar: F or N. BART: Embarcadero.

Waterbar ★★ SEAFOOD Built in tandem with the EPIC Roasthouse (see above), Waterbar is the surf to EPIC’s turf. As with EPIC, Waterbar was built just a few years ago from the ground up right on the Embarcadero waterfront. Whereas renowned restaurant designer Pat Kuleto went with a moderately conservative industrial look at the EPIC steakhouse, at Waterbar he unleashed his imagination and created the most visually playful decor since he opened Farallon in 1997. The focal point of the restaurant is a pair of radiant 19-foot floor-to-ceiling circular aquariums filled with fish and marine critters from the Pacific. The aquatic theme ebbs on with a beautiful glass “caviar” chandelier and a horseshoe-shaped raw bar that has too few of the most coveted seats in town. Even the open kitchen is visually—and aromatically—pleasing. The menu offers a wide selection of market-driven, sustainable seafood such as oak-roasted Maine haddock with smoked butterball potatoes, ancho chili butter, and oyster broth; and local halibut poached in milk with grilled asparagus—but more fun can be

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