Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [88]
519 Columbus Ave. (btw. Green and Union sts.). 415/982-1124. www.losteriadelforno.com. Reservations not accepted. Sandwiches $6–$7; pizzas $10–$18; main courses $6–$16. No credit cards. Sun–Mon and Wed–Thurs 11:30am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–10:30pm. Bus: 15, 30, 41, or 45.
Mario’s Bohemian Cigar Store ★ ITALIAN Across the street from Washington Square is one of North Beach’s most venerable neighborhood hangouts. The century-old corner cafe—small, well worn, and perpetually busy—is one of the oldest and best original cappuccino cafes in the United States. I stop by at least once a month for a meatball or eggplant focaccia sandwich and a slice of Mario’s house-made ricotta cheesecake, and then recharge with a cappuccino as I watch the world stroll by the picture windows. And no, they don’t sell cigars.
566 Columbus Ave. (at Union St.). 415/362-0536. Sandwiches $7.75–$11. MC, V. Daily 10am–10pm. Bus: 15, 30, 41, or 45.
Mo’s Grill ★★ AMERICAN This simple diner offers a straightforward but winning combination: big, thick, grilled patties of fresh-ground, best-quality, center-cut chuck; fresh french fries; and a choice of cabbage slaw, sautéed garlic mushrooms, or chili. Voilà! You’ve got my burger of choice. (Zuni Café’s is a contender, but is almost twice the price.) The other food—spicy chicken sandwiches; steak with veggies, garlic bread, and potatoes; and token veggie dishes—is also up to snuff, but that messy, memorable burger is what keeps the carnivores captivated. (The sinisterly sweet shakes are fantastic, too.) Bargain-diners will appreciate the prices, with burgers ranging from $7 for a classic to $9 for an “Alpine” burger with Gruyère cheese and sautéed mushrooms. Entrees start at $10 for meatloaf with mashed potatoes, garlic bread, and a vegetable, and top out at $18 for New York steak. The classic breakfast menu is also a bargain. A second location at SoMa’s Yerba Buena Gardens, 772 Folsom St., between Third and Fourth streets ( 415/957-3779), is open Monday from 11am to 5pm, Tuesday through Friday from 11am to 8pm, Saturday from 9am to 8pm, and Sunday from 9am to 5pm. It features breakfast and burgers.
1322 Grant Ave. (btw. Vallejo and Green sts.). 415/788-3779. www.mosgrill.com. Main courses $7–$18. MC, V. Sun–Thurs 9am–10:30pm; Fri–Sat 9am–11:30pm. Bus: 9X, 15, 30, 39, 41, or 45.
North Beach Pizza ★ ITALIAN/PIZZA Whenever I order a North Beach pizza, I’m always disappointed by the measly amount of toppings that they give you. Then I eat the entire damn thing in one sitting. There’s something about that uniquely gooey whole-milk mozzarella and hand-spun dough with thick, chewy edges that’s so addictive it’s been the most awarded and widely beloved pizza in the city for more than 2 decades. You can get a better pizza in the city—Pauline’s and Little Star have them beat—but not in North Beach, not via free delivery throughout the city, and not at 2am on Saturday when you’re drunk, stoned, and starving. Either create your own pizza from their list of 20 fresh ingredients (the sausage with black olives is the bomb), or choose from the house’s 10 specialties such as the San Francisco Special—clams, garlic, cheese, and one brutal case of halitosis. There are numerous satellite NBPs throughout the city offering fast, free delivery until the wee hours.
1462 Grant St. (at Union St.). 415/433-2444. www.northbeachpizza.com. Main courses $9–$21. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5–11pm; Fri–Sat 10am–1am; delivery until 2am daily. Cable car: Powell–Mason line. Bus: 15, 30, 41, or 45.
San Francisco Art Institute Café AMERICAN Never in a million years would you stumble upon the Art Institute Café by accident. One of the best-kept secrets in San Francisco, this cafe offers fresh, affordable cafe standards for in-the-know