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and owner-chef Traci Des Jardins, one of the city’s most popular chefs. On most evenings the bi-level brick structure is abuzz with an older crowd (including ex-mayor Willie Brown, a regular) who sip cocktails at the centerpiece mahogany bar or watch the scene discreetly from the circular balcony. The restaurant’s champagne theme extends to twinkling lights and clever ice buckets built into the balcony railing, making the atmosphere conducive to splurging in the best of style—especially when live jazz is playing (7:30pm nightly). The daily changing menu might include seared scallops with truffled potatoes and truffle reduction, sautéed petrale sole with Alsatian cabbage and Riesling sauce, or venison with celery root, red wine, braised cabbage, and juniper sauce. There’s also an outstanding cheese selection and superb wine list—many by the glass, and over 500 bottles.

300 Grove St. (at Franklin St.). 415/861-5555. www.jardiniere.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $26–$40; 6-course tasting menu $99. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Wed 5–10:30pm; Thurs–Sat 5–11:30pm. Valet parking $10. Bus: 19 or 21.

Moderate

Absinthe ★ FRENCH This Hayes Valley hot spot is sexy, fun, reasonably priced, and frequented by everyone from the theatergoing crowd to the young and chic. Decor is all brasserie, with French rattan cafe chairs, copper-topped tables, a pressed-tin ceiling, soft lighting, period art, and a rich use of color and fabric, including leather and mohair banquettes. It’s always a pleasure to unwind at the bar with a Ginger Rogers—gin, mint, lemon juice, ginger ale, and a squeeze of lime. The lengthy lunch menu offers everything from oysters and caviar to Caesar salad and croque-monsieur, but I always end up getting their outstanding open-faced smoked-trout sandwich on grilled Italian bread. In the divided dining room, main courses are equally satisfying, from coq au vin and steak frites to roasted whole Dungeness crab with poached leeks in mustard vinaigrette, salt-roasted potatoes, and aioli. The best item on the weekend brunch menu is the creamy polenta, with mascarpone, maple syrup, bananas, and toasted walnuts.

398 Hayes St. (at Gough St.). 415/551-1590. www.absinthe.com. Reservations recommended. Brunch $8–$14; most main courses $12–$20 lunch, $14–$30 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Fri 11:30am–midnight (bar until 2am Fri); Sat 11am–midnight (bar until 2am); Sun 11am–10pm (bar until midnight). Valet parking (Tues–Sat after 5pm) $10. Bus: 21.

Hayes Street Grill ★ SEAFOOD For 30 years, this small, no-nonsense seafood restaurant (owned and operated by revered food writer and chef Patricia Unterman) has maintained a solid reputation among San Francisco’s picky epicureans for its impeccably fresh and straightforwardly prepared fish. The concise menu offers a dozen appetizers—most of which are fresh and lively salads—a half-dozen grilled fish selections cooked to perfection and matched with your sauce of choice (Szechuan peanut, tomatillo salsa, herb-shallot butter), and a side of signature fries. Fancier seafood specials, which change with the seasons and range from mahimahi (with Vietnamese dipping sauce, baby spinach, roasted peanuts, and basmati rice) to classic paella, are balanced by a few meat-driven dishes, which may include Niman Ranch (organic and wonderful) flatiron steak with mustard butter and balsamic onions. Finish your meal with the outstanding crème brûlée.

320 Hayes St. (near Franklin St.). 415/863-5545. www.hayesstreetgrill.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $20–$26 lunch, $20–$28 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2pm; Mon–Thurs 5–9pm; Fri 5–10pm; Sat 5–10pm; Sun 5–8:30pm. Bus: 19, 21, 31, or 38.

Sebo ★★★ JAPANESE/SUSHI San Francisco magazine created quite a fuss when they named this the “best sushi in the country.” Neighborhood regulars could no longer get a table in the subdued 25-seat restaurant due to the lines out the door. Be sure to make a reservation or show up when they open their doors to get a taste of fish rarely seen inside the U.S. (most ingredients are flown in daily