Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [124]
South of here, across Mühlendamm, the octagonal Mühlentorturm (Mill Gate Tower) is one of four surviving medieval fortification towers. Just beyond are the Neustädtischer Markt and the Katharinenkirche ( 521 162; Katharinenkirchplatz 2; 10am-4pm Mon-Sat, 1-4pm Sun), a vast Gothic brick church with a lavishly detailed and decorated facade. See if you can spot your favourite biblical characters on the ‘Meadow of Heaven’ painted ceiling.
South of here, a Gothic red-brick monastery has risen from ruins and been recast as the Archäologisches Landesmuseum Brandenburg (Archaeological State Museum; 410 4112; Neustädtische Heidestrasse 28; adult/concession/family €5/3.50/10; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun). The building itself is a highlight, but there’s also plenty of excavated treasure to admire, including super-rare stone-age textiles, bronze-age gold rings, Germanic tools and medieval coins.
If you start yearning for higher ground, climb up the nearby Steintorturm (cnr Steinstrasse & Neustädtische Heidestrasse; adult/concession €3/1; 9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun), which also has a small exhibit on Havel shipping. Admission here is also good at the main city museum, the Stadtmuseum im Frey-Haus ( 584 501; Ritterstrasse 96; adult/concession €3/1; 9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun), reached by following the pedestrianised Hauptstrasse to the Jahrtausendbrücke. It chronicles local lore from prehistory to the end of the GDR era and presents an entire collection of cute mechanical toys produced by Ernst Paul Lehmann, the man who donated the building to the historical society in 1919. Bearing right takes you to the Altstädtisches Rathaus, a red-brick gem fronted by a lanky statue of the mythological figure Roland, a symbol of justice and prosperity.
In warm weather, Brandenburg’s charms are best appreciated from the water. A number of outfitters rent canoes and kayaks for about €5 per hour or €30 per day. Try Cafébar (right) or Wasserwanderrastplatz Am Slawendorf ( 0175-215 7774), both near the Jahrtausendbrücke. There’s good lake swimming in the Freibad Grillendamm on the Kleiner Beetzsee off the northern shore of Dominsel.
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Tours
The tourist office rents out free audioguides (deposit required) for a self-guided English-language tour of the city’s medieval centre.
From April to October, Nordstern ( 226 960; www.nordstern-reederei.de, in German) and Reederei Röding ( 522 331; www.fgs-havelfee.de) operate boat tours around the Havel lakes. Embarkation is at Am Salzhof, just south of the Jahrtausendbrücke. Fares start at €4.50 for a one-hour spin around the old town.
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Sleeping
Pension Zum Birnbaum ( 527 500; www.pension-zum-birnbaum.de; Mittelstrasse 1; s/d/tr from €28/42/51, breakfast €3; ) A singing host, breakfast under a pear tree and handsomely furnished, if snug, rooms recommend this little historic inn that places you close to the train station and the Neustadt.
Backpacker Hostel Caasi ( 3290; www.caasi.de; Caasmannstrasse 7; dm €12-15, linen €5, s/d €30/50, breakfast €5; ) On the edge of town, this is a good option for shoestringers, even though many of the 250 rooms are filled with long-term guests. Assets include kitchen access and a pub.
Sorat Hotel Brandenburg ( 5970; www.sorat-hotels.com; Altstädtischer Markt 1; s €98-141, d €114-157; ) The top-notch Sorat has 86 bright, modern rooms in pretty surroundings right by the Rathaus. Rates include a champagne breakfast and gym and sauna use; weekend rates drop significantly.
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Eating
Cafébar ( 229 048; Ritterstrasse 76; snacks €3-6; 8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, from 9.30am Sat & Sun; ) The best place for coffee and homemade cake, this is a teensy kiosk right by the Jahrtausendbr