Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [132]
Tourist office ( 2059; www.tourismus-rheinsberg.de; Kavalierhaus des Schlosses, Am Markt; 10am-5pm Mon-Thu, 10am-6pm Fri & Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)
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Sights
The town’s star attraction is the eponymous Schloss Rheinsberg ( 7260; www.spsg.de; Mühlenstrasse 1; adult/concession/family incl audioguide €6/5/8; 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-5pm Nov-Mar), prettily set right on Lake Grienerick and surrounded by a sprawling park. Friedrich Wilhelm I purchased it in 1734 for his 22-year-old son, Crown Prince Friedrich, the future Frederick the Great. The prince, who spent four years here studying and preparing for the throne, later said this period was the happiest of his life. In 1744 he gave the palace to his brother Heinrich, a closet homosexual whom Frederick forced into marriage with Wilhelmine of Hesse-Kassel. You’ll learn this and other juicy titbits on a self-guided audio tour (available in English).
During GDR times, the palace was used as a sanatorium and, although nicely restored, its interior can’t quite match what you might have seen in Schloss Sanssouci or Schloss Charlottenburg. Still, there are a few highlights, especially the Spiegelsaal (Hall of Mirrors), decorated with a ceiling fresco by Antoine Pesne, and the Muschelsaal (Shell Room).
Schloss tickets are also good for the Tucholsky Literaturmuseum ( 390 07; www.tucholsky-museum.de, in German; without Schloss adult/concession/family €3/2/6) on the ground floor of the north wing. The exhibit traces the life of journalist, satirist, poet and social critic Kurt Tucholsky (1890–1935), who went into exile in Sweden when the Nazis came to power.
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Activities
Reederei Halbeck ( 386 19; www.schiffahrt-rheinsberg.de, in German; Markt 11; 2hr trip from €6.50), next to the tourist office, offers a range of lake and river cruises and hires out canoes, paddle-boats and kayaks. Rheinsberger Adventure Tours ( 392 47; www.rhintour.de, in German; cnr Rhinstrasse & Mühlenstrasse) hires out boats and bikes and can arrange all sorts of area excursions.
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Sleeping & Eating
Pension Holländermühle ( 2332; http://rheinsberg.de/hollaender-muehle, in German; Holländer Mühle 1; s €45, d €60-70; ) Expect charm by the bucket at this cute B&B where you can either sleep in romantic rooms in a historic windmill or in modern ones in an annex. The restaurant serves German and regional fare (mains €8.50 to €16, open noon to 7pm).
Zum Jungen Fritz ( 4090; www.junger-fritz.de, in German; Schlossstrasse 8; s/d €47/70; ) This sweet little inn has big-hearted owners and nine cute rooms. Rates include access to the local gym (with sauna), which could come in handy after a robust meal at their old-time German restaurant.
Der Seehof ( 4030; www.seehof-rheinsberg.com, in German; Seestrasse 18; s €65-75, d €100-110; ) This top-flight option in a 1750 townhouse has lovely rooms furnished in a modern, uncluttered country style with wooden floors and plenty of natural light. The restaurant (mains €8.50 to €20) serves exceptional meals, many built around locally caught game and fish.
Eisfabrik ( 7240; Kurt-Tucholsky-Strasse 36; ) To feed your sweet-tooth cravings, swing by Eisfabrik, which makes its own ice cream, including some from herbs, vegetables and other unusual ingredients.
Café Tucholsky ( 343 70; Kurt-Tucholsky-Strasse 30a; mains €6-11; 11am-10pm; ) This smart lakeside cafe is an excellent one-size-fits-all option. Come for coffee and cake, a refreshment, a snack or a full meal.
Zum Alten Fritz ( 2086; Schlossstrasse 11; mains around €11; 11.30am-11pm; ) The beautiful old porcelain, books, lamps and other traditional decor almost transport you back to the 18th century. Some of the dishes were also inspired by recipes from that era.
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Entertainment
Musikakademie Rheinsberg ( 7210; www.musikakademie-rheinsberg.de, in German; Kavalierhaus des Schlosses) The academy presents year-round concerts,