Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [143]
Rothenburger Hof ( 812 60; www.rothenburgerhof.de; Rothenburger Strasse 15-17; s €75-115, d €99-140, apt from €140; ) This quiet launch pad for Neustadt explorations counts among its assets apartments with kitchenette and balcony, a Moorish-style steam room and a great pool.
Hotel Schloss Eckberg/Kavaliershaus ( 809 90; www.schloss-eckberg.de; Bautzner Strasse 134; s/d from €103/143; ) You’ll feel like royalty when arriving at this romantic estate set in its own riverside park east of the Neustadt. Rooms in the historic Schloss are pricier and have more flair, but staying in the modern Kavaliershaus lets you enjoy almost as many amenities and the same dreamy setting.
TOP END
Steigenberger Hotel de Saxe ( 438 60; www.steigenberger.com; Neumarkt 9; s/d from €150, breakfast €21; ) Wake up to the best views of the Frauenkirche from any hotel window in town, before descending from your sumptuous room to a buffet breakfast costing more than a hostel bed. Unwind after a hard day’s sightseeing in the large wellness area.
Radisson Blu Gewandhaushotel ( 494 90; www.radissonblu.com; Ringstrasse 1; r €130-300, ste €450-550, breakfast €21; ) Another top choice for class and personal service. Housed in a former fabric factory, the public areas are stunning and most Biedermeier-style rooms have whirlpool baths in their marble-fitted bathrooms.
Westin Bellevue ( 8050; www.westin.com/dresden; Grosse Meissner Strasse 15; s €150-230, d €180-260, breakfast €19; ) Baroque and modern elements blend smoothly in this sprawling and elegant property, where the nicest rooms give you unparalleled views of Dresden’s famous silhouette.
Hotel Bülow Residenz ( 800 30; www.buelow-residenz.de; Rähnitzstrasse 19; s/d €195/250, breakfast €19; ) This place is a class act all round, from the welcome drink to the cute bears delivered at turndown, the free minibar to free wi-fi. Even the standard rooms are spacious, and the restaurant has a fine reputation as well.
Kempinski Hotel Taschenbergpalais ( 491 20; www.kempinski-dresden.de; Taschenberg 3; s €280-370, d €320-400, ste €500-900; ) This restored 18th-century mansion certainly prickles with wow factor, with views over the Zwinger, incredibly quiet corridors and Bulgari toiletries. In winter, the courtyard turns into an ice rink.
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Eating
ALTSTADT
The Altstadt brims with restaurants, most of them targeting the tourist hordes. For a bit more local flavour, try pedestrianised Weisse Gasse, recently declared a Kneipenviertel (Pub Quarter), or head to the Neustadt.
SoupCafé (Prager Strasse 2; soups from €3.90; 11am-9pm daily) Located right by the Hauptbahnhof Nord tram stop, this up-to-the-minute, DayGlo place serves comfort food, such as Saxon potato soup and sponge-cake balls in vanilla sauce, in trendy square bowls.
Ladencafé Aha ( 496 0673; Kreuzstrasse 7; mains €5-12; 10am-midnight) At this warm and cheerful smoke- and stress-free zone above a one-world store, you can sip delicious coffee, pick from the international menu, leaf through the many magazines or watch your kiddies play with the provided toys.
brennNessel ( 494 3319; Schützengasse 18; mains €8-12) Housed in Dresden’s half-timbered Environmental Centre, this superb vegetarian place with a woodsy interior and leafy cobbled courtyard beer garden is possibly the city’s best. It’s a favourite hang-out for off-duty Semperoper musicians, whom you can often hear practising nearby.
Sophienkeller ( 497 260; Taschenberg 3; mains €8-16) The tourist-oriented 1730s theme with waitresses trussed up in period garb may be a bit overcooked, but the local specialities certainly are not. The highlight of the drinks menu here is the dark Bohemian Krušovice on tap.
Gänsedieb ( 485 0905; Weisse Gasse 1; mains €8-17) Worth a gander in the Weisse Gasse, the ‘Goose Thief’ serves hearty schnitzels, goulash and steaks alongside a full range