Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [151]
Tourist office ( 419 40; www.touristinfo-meissen.de; Markt 3; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat Nov, Dec, Feb & Mar)
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Sights
The Markt is framed by the Rathaus (1472) and the Gothic Frauenkirche ( 453 832; tower adult/concession €2/1; 10am-noon & 2-4pm Apr-Oct) whose carillon is the world’s oldest made from porcelain; it chimes a different ditty six times daily. Climb the tower for fine red-roof views of the Altstadt.
Even grander vistas will be your reward after schlepping up the Burgberg via a series of steep, stepped lanes. On top, the 15th-century Albrechtsburg ( 470 70; Domplatz 1; adult/concession/family €4/2/9; 10am-6pm Mar-Oct, 10am-5pm Nov-Feb) is considered to be Germany’s first residential palace, and it housed the original Meissen porcelain factory from 1710 to 1864. Today it contains displays on the history of porcelain production and temporary shows, with the installation of a major exhibition on Saxon history planned for 2011. Mostly, though, it’s the intriguing architecture that’s likely to impress, most notably the Grosser Wendelstein staircase and the eye-popping room vaulting.
Next to the palace is Meissen’s modest and rather soot-blackened Dom (cathedral; 452 490; Domplatz 7; adult/concession/family €2.50/1.50/6; 10am-6pm Mar-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Feb), a Gothic masterpiece with medieval stained-glass windows and delicately carved statues in the choir. Combination tickets for both buildings are €6/3/15.
There’s no ‘quiet time’ to arrive at the understandably popular and utterly unmissable Porzellan-Museum ( 468 208; Talstrasse 9; adult/concession/family €8.50/4.50/18; 9am-6pm May-Oct, 9am-5pm Nov-Apr), but it’s worth braving the crush (and the waiting) to witness the astonishing artistry and craftsmanship that makes Meissen porcelain truly unique. It’s right next to the actual porcelain factory, about 1km south of the Altstadt. You start with a 30-minute tour (with English audioguide) of the Schauwerkstätten, a series of four studios where you can observe live demonstrations of vase throwing, plate painting, figure moulding and the glazing process. This helps you gain a better appreciation for the 3000 pieces, displayed chronologically, at the Schauhalle inside an integrated art-nouveau villa.
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Sleeping
Herberge Orange ( 454 334; www.herberge-orange.de; Siebeneichener Strasse 34; s/d/tr without bathroom €16/27/40.50; ) This former riverside home of porcelain-factory apprentices, 1.5km south of the Markt, has been converted into a friendly and unassuming hostel-cum-hotel, which is proving a winner with wallet-watching nomads. Towels, sheets and breakfast all cost extra.
Hotel Goldgrund ( 479 30; www.hotel-goldgrund-meissen.de; Goldgrund 14; s €41-57, d €59-85; ) On the opposite side of the S-Bahn tracks from the Porcelain Museum, this hotel is surrounded by tranquil woodland. The 21 rooms have high ceilings and new furnishings, and there’s a shady summer terrace for evening barbecues.
Hotel Burgkeller ( 414 00; www.meissen-hotel.com; Domplatz 11; s/d from €75/125; ) This polished hill-top option has everything you could want – commanding views, elegant rooms, a glorious beer garden and a location adjacent to the cathedral.
Hotel Goldener Löwe ( 411 10; www.meissen-hotel.com; Heinrichsplatz 6; s/d from €75/125; ) Everything works like a well-oiled machine at this warm and welcoming hotel in a handsome 17th-century building near the Markt. The 36 rooms have antique-style furnishings and all major amenities.
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Eating
Schloss Taverne ( 402 409; Schlossstufen 1; mains €6-14; closed Tue) Take a seat on the bench-lined and arcaded inner courtyard, surely Meissen’s most atmospheric place to eat, to enjoy goulash, pork chops or Saxon beef joint with dumplings and sauerkraut. Then take it slow with a bottle or two of the region’s wine, accompanied by locals on the accordion.
Zollhof ( 454 161; Elbstrasse 7; mains €6.50-15.50) The flower-festooned