Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [158]
India Gate ( 9606 065; Nikolaistrasse 10; mains €7-14) Go subcontinental on the 1st floor of the Strohsackpassage, where a smiley welcome awaits curry-aholics at Leipzig’s best Indian. Pink tablecloths and a scale model of the Taj Mahal teleport diners to spicier climbs (or perhaps just a British high street).
Gosenschenke ‘Ohne Bedenken’ ( 566 2360; Menckestrasse 5; mains €6-16; noon-1am) This historic Leipzig institution, backed by the city’s prettiest beer garden, is the place to sample Gose, a local top-fermented beer often served with a shot of liqueur. The menu has a distinctly carnivorous bent. Take tram 12 to Fritz-Seger-Strasse.
Zill’s Tunnel ( 960 2078; Barfussgässchen 9; mains €9-13; 11.30am-midnight) Empty tables are a rare sight at this outstanding restaurant offering a classic menu of robust Saxon dishes. Sit on the outside terrace, in the rustic cellar, or in the covered ‘tunnel’ courtyard.
Zest ( 2319 126; Bornaischestrasse 54; mains €10-15) Virtually Leipzig’s only vegetarian restaurant is buried deep in the southern suburbs. The perfectly crafted seasonal menu of vegan fare is complimented by carefully selected wines. Alternatively just pop in for a strawberry and basil smoothie. Take tram 10 or 11 south to Pfeffingerstrasse.
Barthel’s Hof ( 141 310; Hainstrasse 1; mains €7-21; 7am-11pm) This is a sprawling place with outdoor seating in a courtyard, occasional buffet specials and almost exotic Saxon dishes such as Heubraten (marinated lamb roasted on hay). The menu takes some deciphering.
Auerbachs Keller ( 216 100; Grimmaische Strasse 2-4, Mädlerpassage; mains €8-25) Founded in 1525, Auerbachs Keller is one of Germany’s best-known restaurants. It’s cosy and touristy, but the food’s actually quite good and the setting memorable. In Goethe’s Faust – Part I, Mephistopheles and Faust carouse here with some students before they ride off on a barrel. The scene is depicted on a carved tree trunk in what is now the Goethe Room (where the great writer allegedly came for ‘inspiration’).
Medici ( 211 3878; Nikolaikirchhof 5; mains €11-25; noon-2.30pm & 6-11pm Mon-Sat) The interior may resemble a suspension bridge, but this classy Italian spot gets 10 out of 10 from locals. Mains come in small or large, but serious foodies go for the three- to five-course set menus (€46 to €62).
Also recommended:
Bagel Brothers ( 9803 330; Nikolaistrasse 42; bagels €2.50-4; 6.30am-11pm) Who cares about character when you’ve a hole to fill. Great people-watching potential outside.
El-Amir ( 308 2568; Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 59; mains €2.50-5) Little hole-in-the-wall place selling Leipzig’s biggest and best doner, bar none.
CAFES
Telegraph+++ ( 1494 990; Dittrichring 18-20; mains €5-11) This elegantly high-ceilinged cafe serves tasty Austrian favourites and a choice of breakfasts, while you digest international goings-on over an English newspaper.
Café Riquet ( 961 0000; Schuhmachergässchen 1; mains €8-12; 9am-10pm) Two bronze elephants guard the entrance to this Viennese-style coffee house in a superb art-nouveau building.
Zum Arabischen Coffe Baum ( 961 0061; Kleine Fleischergasse 4; mains €7.50-17; 11am-midnight) Hosting six different eateries, Leipzig’s oldest inn is as stuffy as your grandma’s attic, but the cakes and meals are excellent and there’s a free coffee museum to boot. Composer Robert Schumann used to come here for his daily caffeine fix.
Return to beginning of chapter
Drinking
The city centre, especially around Barfuss-gässchen, Kleine Fleischergasse (which make up the famous Drallewatsch) and Gottschedstrasse, has a mix of touristy joints and low-key watering holes. A more alternative vibe rules south, along student-flavoured Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse, sometimes known as Karli or Südmeile. Nearby, Münzgasse is another up-and-coming party strip.
Volkshaus ( 2127 222; Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 32; ) Anything goes at this high-ceilinged, big-windowed bar-cafe: drinking, smoking, partying to the wee hours or just hanging out on the Karli. DJs and live footy take over at weekends.