Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [187]
Believers point to the fact that the Schlosskirche’s door was used as a bulletin board of sorts by the university, that the alleged posting took place the day before the affluent congregation poured into the church on All Saints’ Day (1 November), and the fact that at Luther’s funeral, his influential friend Philipp Melanchthon said he witnessed Luther’s deed.
But Melanchthon didn’t arrive in town until 1518 – the year after the supposed event. It’s also odd that Luther’s writings never once mentioned such a highly radical act.
While it’s known that he sent his theses to the local archbishop to provoke discussion, some locals think it would have been out of character for a devout monk, interested mainly in an honest debate, to challenge the system so publicly and flagrantly without first exhausting all his options.
In any event, nailed to the church door or not, the net effect of Luther’s theses was the same. They triggered the Reformation and Protestantism, altering the way that large sections of the world’s Christian population worship to this day.
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Festivals & Events
Wittenberg is busiest during Luthers Hochzeit (Luther’s Wedding festival) in early or mid-June, and for Reformationsfest (Reformation Festival) held on 31 October.
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Sleeping
The tourist office operates a free room reservation service in person or by phone at 498 612. Private rooms start at €19 per person.
Brückenkopf Hotel Marina-Camp Elbe ( 4540; www.marina-camp-elbe.de; Brückenkopf 1; adult/child €5/4, tent €7-10, car €4, hotel s/d €43/66, breakfast €6; year-round; ) How many camping grounds come with their own wine cellar? This riverside one does, along with a marina, a restaurant, a hotel, holiday apartments, beach volleyball, table tennis, a sauna, laundry facilities and other useful amenities. Bonus: the dreamy views of the town silhouette.
DJH hostel ( 403 255; www.jugendherberge.de/jh/wittenberg; Schlossstrasse 14/15; dm under/over 27yr €14/17, s/d €27/54, breakfast €4.50, linen €3.50; ) Take crummy old hostel, move into new digs and reboot as bouncy, contemporary shelter. It’s a recipe that’s worked beautifully for Wittenberg’s contender, whose 40 bright rooms sleep up to six people and come with bathrooms, bedside reading lamps and private cabinets.
Pension am Schwanenteich ( 402 807; www.wittenberg-schwanenteich.de; Töpferstrasse 1; s €36-47, d €64-74; ) At these prices you know you’re not getting the Ritz, but if you want friendly and familiar ambience and simple but comfy rooms, this humble Pension should fit the bill. The restaurant serves four-course menus of German soul food for €12.50.
Stadthotel Wittenberg Schwarzer Baer ( 420 4344; www.stadthotel-wittenberg.de; Schlossstrasse 2; s €56-65, d €69-85; ) The modern rooms in this 500-year-old heritage-listed building (no lift) are light, airy and clean-smelling, with wooden floors and cork headboards. Staff are on the ball, too.
Alte Canzley ( 429 190; www.alte-canzley.de; Schlossplatz 3-5; s €70-125, d €84-139; ) The nicest place in town for our money is in a 14th-century building opposite the Schlosskirche. Each of the eight spacious units are furnished in dark woods and natural hues, named for a major historical figure and equipped with a kitchenette. The vaulted downstairs harbours Saxony-Anhalt’s first certified organic restaurant (dishes €4 to €17).
Luther-Hotel ( 4580; www.luther-hotel-wittenberg.de; Neustrasse 7-10; s €69-104, d €85-122; ) You’ll sleep like an angel in this sparkling, modern place affiliated with a Christian charity organisation. Don’t expect monastic austerity, just good-sized and cheerfully coloured rooms, most of them with unimpeded Stadtkirche views. A sauna invites post-sightseeing unwinding.
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Eating & Drinking
Casinoberg ( 400 148; Pfaffengasse 28a; dishes €3-10; from 6pm) If you like your beer and pub grub with a side of local colour, swing by this watering hole presided over by