Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [195]
Perhaps the most scenic way to get to Freyburg is by boat from Blütengrund, at the confluence of the Saale and Unstrut Rivers, just outside Naumburg. The historic, 19th-century MS Fröhliche Dörte ( 03445-202 830) tootles its way up the Unstrut at 11am, 1.30pm and 4pm daily between April and October. The 70-minute journey costs €6.50 per adult and €3.50 per child one way, and €12 and €7.50 return. It runs back from Freyburg at 12.15pm, 2.45pm and 5.15pm.
Drivers should follow the B180.
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Harz Mountains
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Information
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Getting There & Away
Getting Around
WESTERN HARZ
GOSLAR
Orientation
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Sleeping
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Shopping
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HAHNENKLEE
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BAD HARZBURG
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BRAUNLAGE
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ST ANDREASBERG
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Sleeping & Eating
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CLAUSTHAL-ZELLERFELD
Orientation & Information
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Sleeping & Eating
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EASTERN HARZ
WERNIGERODE
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Sleeping
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RÜBELAND CAVES
SCHIERKE
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MITTELBAU DORA
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BROCKEN & TORFHAUS
Goetheweg from Torfhaus
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QUEDLINBURG
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Sleeping
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GERNRODE
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THALE
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The Harz Mountains, rising up from the north German Plain as an ‘island’ of high, forest-clad hills, straddle the states of Saxony-Anhalt, Thuringia and Lower Saxony. They are picturesque rather than spectacular, extending about 100km from west to east and widening to only 30km. Here you find excellent hiking trails in Harz National Park, opportunities for mountain-biking or road cycling, and even the chance to downhill or cross-country ski in a good season.
Many an illustrious visitor has graced the Harz trails. Goethe was frequently seen striding them and set ‘Walpurgisnacht’, an early chapter of Faust, on the highest Harz mountain, the Brocken; later, satirical poet Heinrich Heine spent a well-oiled night on the mountain, as described in Harzreise (Harz Journey; 1824).
History, though, is chequered here. From 1952 until reunification, the region was divided between West and East Germany, a single region straddling the Iron Curtain but following two very different paths. Access to border regions of the east were strictly controlled by checkpoints that prevented East German’s dashing over to the West.
Today, the mixed deciduous forests and rugged landscape of the eastern regions are strong attractions in the Harz, and revamped infrastructure means interesting hubs in the east like Wernigerode and Quedlinburg are becoming more popular than their counterparts in the west. Nevertheless, the Western Harz has much to offer, and visiting towns such as Goslar, St Andreasberg and Clausthal-Zellerfeld will amply reward the curious traveller.
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HIGHLIGHTS
Pagan Rituals Trek to the Brocken or party on Hexentanzplatz, Thale, for Walpurgisnacht
Evening on the Trail Hike by torchlight through snow outside St Andreasberg for the evening wild deer feeding at the Rehberger Grabenhaus
Views of Past Ages Stroll among 1400 half-timbered houses from six centuries in Quedlinburg before relaxing with a coffee on a hilltop cafe overlooking town Click here
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